K&N Air Filter?
I am thinking of getting a K&N cold air kit for my 2007 Chev 2500HD 6.0L gas. I would like to here from those that have used them or any issues with these filters. Thanks
Forum Discussion
Dirt/sand/etc in the intake charge will NOT have the ICE fail instantly,
nor will it stop working over the long haul...what it will do is to
wear out the cylinder wall to piston ring seal sooner. Dotto valve to
valve seat sooner
Meaning that it will continue to run for a loooooooooooong time after
those seals are compromised...but the compression will NOT be in top
notch shape
By-pass and leaky will be the result and lower PSI on the piston top and
that means less power
Filtration for this type if application has two types or methods
#1 is OEM like and blockage of particulates via a grid or screen (
porosity of material down to whatever max particulate spec'd)
#2 is change of direction (inertia) and stick'm (K&N types)
With #2 types, it works with inertia of the air & particulates along
with vortices of the air flow to cause the particulates to smack into
the very large pores of the screen.
To keep those particulates in the filtration material grid/screen, a
stick'm is employed...AKA the oil in K&A types
Bottom line for all ICE intake filtration performance is to lower
the PSI drop
That is most important at high flow rates (WOT). Meaning more important
for diesel's and boy racer gassers or folks towing with high throttle
settings for long periods
Am a life long boy racer and have used just about every whizzy bang
type of intake filtration system I've ever come across.
When younger and a 'bit' now...loved the sound of an intake approaching
the sound barrier...but also keep my vehicles a looooong time, so
have to have GREAT intake filtration on all of my ICE's. Why my
sub has the HD OEM filter in the stock filter box. It is about 2 inches
larger in dia than the stock size. Still paper
Make my own ram, cold air intake and think better than any commercial
after market kits out there. AS they all intake 'some' or too 'much'
engine bay heated air
I will NOT use any of these 'performance' filters on any of my vehicles.
Even my 2 seater sports rocket
nor will it stop working over the long haul...what it will do is to
wear out the cylinder wall to piston ring seal sooner. Dotto valve to
valve seat sooner
Meaning that it will continue to run for a loooooooooooong time after
those seals are compromised...but the compression will NOT be in top
notch shape
By-pass and leaky will be the result and lower PSI on the piston top and
that means less power
Filtration for this type if application has two types or methods
#1 is OEM like and blockage of particulates via a grid or screen (
porosity of material down to whatever max particulate spec'd)
#2 is change of direction (inertia) and stick'm (K&N types)
With #2 types, it works with inertia of the air & particulates along
with vortices of the air flow to cause the particulates to smack into
the very large pores of the screen.
To keep those particulates in the filtration material grid/screen, a
stick'm is employed...AKA the oil in K&A types
Bottom line for all ICE intake filtration performance is to lower
the PSI drop
That is most important at high flow rates (WOT). Meaning more important
for diesel's and boy racer gassers or folks towing with high throttle
settings for long periods
Am a life long boy racer and have used just about every whizzy bang
type of intake filtration system I've ever come across.
When younger and a 'bit' now...loved the sound of an intake approaching
the sound barrier...but also keep my vehicles a looooong time, so
have to have GREAT intake filtration on all of my ICE's. Why my
sub has the HD OEM filter in the stock filter box. It is about 2 inches
larger in dia than the stock size. Still paper
Make my own ram, cold air intake and think better than any commercial
after market kits out there. AS they all intake 'some' or too 'much'
engine bay heated air
I will NOT use any of these 'performance' filters on any of my vehicles.
Even my 2 seater sports rocket
