K&N Air Filter?
I am thinking of getting a K&N cold air kit for my 2007 Chev 2500HD 6.0L gas. I would like to here from those that have used them or any issues with these filters. Thanks
Forum Discussion
Burbman...I understand it both from the boy racer and engineering sides...IMHO
Boy racer will 'think' better from the noise and will be WOT often to actually
use a lower PSI drop...but the potential increased wear will then reduce the
power output
All computer controlled (ECU's) has full power mode with many shades of grey
down to limp mode to completely shut down
Those levels of power has many attributes and most based on temp
preset limits. Most of those presets are weighted towards SMOG and MPG
while POWER MODE of lesser priority than both of them.
Anyone notice how well their ECU controlled vehicle run stronger when
in open loop? Once it comes up to temp and the ECU's goes into closed
loop control...less power because it is 'dirty' for SMOG in open loop
and when in closed loop it tries to keep it at a pure stoichiometric
ratios.
The why of tuners requiring a 160* F thermostat, but the OEMs have
fixed that with some pretty complicated thermostats and no longer
have 160's for after market folks. Ditto the need or requirement
for higher octane for tuners
Most folks have NOT experienced big blocks and the amounts of heat rejected
I have a pretty high pain threshold, but can NOT keep my hand in the engine bay
air flow when it is up to temp. Painful
There are many laws of physic's in play and again, temperature a key ingredient
Anyone wonder why turbo's have intercoolers? That is the exact laws of physics
in wanting cold air intake. Why the OEMs now plumb to ingest outside of the
engine bay. That the after market designs generally do NOT ingest ambient air
but engine bay air (heated). Mainly because folks do not want to, nor know HOW2
cut holes in their vehicle's sheetmetal
Boy racer will 'think' better from the noise and will be WOT often to actually
use a lower PSI drop...but the potential increased wear will then reduce the
power output
All computer controlled (ECU's) has full power mode with many shades of grey
down to limp mode to completely shut down
Those levels of power has many attributes and most based on temp
preset limits. Most of those presets are weighted towards SMOG and MPG
while POWER MODE of lesser priority than both of them.
Anyone notice how well their ECU controlled vehicle run stronger when
in open loop? Once it comes up to temp and the ECU's goes into closed
loop control...less power because it is 'dirty' for SMOG in open loop
and when in closed loop it tries to keep it at a pure stoichiometric
ratios.
The why of tuners requiring a 160* F thermostat, but the OEMs have
fixed that with some pretty complicated thermostats and no longer
have 160's for after market folks. Ditto the need or requirement
for higher octane for tuners
Most folks have NOT experienced big blocks and the amounts of heat rejected
I have a pretty high pain threshold, but can NOT keep my hand in the engine bay
air flow when it is up to temp. Painful
There are many laws of physic's in play and again, temperature a key ingredient
Anyone wonder why turbo's have intercoolers? That is the exact laws of physics
in wanting cold air intake. Why the OEMs now plumb to ingest outside of the
engine bay. That the after market designs generally do NOT ingest ambient air
but engine bay air (heated). Mainly because folks do not want to, nor know HOW2
cut holes in their vehicle's sheetmetal
