Lance 9000 Project
Hello, The DW and I purchased a 1987 Lance 9000 a couple of weeks ago and we are preparing for a winter project. Since our Springdale TT has been designated as our "second home" on some property we pu...
Forum Discussion
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One note of caution when redesigning any camper would be to add a vapor barrier to the ceiling, walls and even floors if possible. Because human generated vapor produces up to one gallon per person per day, the amount of condensed water accumulated in the wood frame structure can easily exceed all but the largest of rain gap leaks.
It is very difficult to determine what is a humidity problem and what is rain intrusion. As an example, humidity collects, and condenses, directly under the vapor resistant roof membrane. Humidity collects particularily in wood that is cooler than normal, because of exterior cool temperature access or contact. These "cool" areas would naturally be around vents, windows and the outer corners of "top plates", or vertical corner studs that do not receive much interior heat-conductive contact, therefore warmth, from the inside. Unfortunately these are the same areas that a concerned consumer expects some rain seepage, and rain intrusion often takes the blame when the damaging water source actually came from within.
From years of full size home construction experience, I estimate that over half of RV water damage problems originally come from interior humidity rather than rain. This large percentage is not true in homes but RV's are different. And it is good to remember that, in spite of failures, all homes now built in the northern cool climate do have attempted vapor barrier protection against interior humidity migration. RV's do not have protection although they are certainly suscepted to the same quantity of vapor diffusion as full size homes... an assault in a lot less wall space.
I would not recommend the use of green treated wood in campers. Most metals, especially zinc and aluminum, react galvanically with the copper. If this treatment is used, it must be fastened with stainless steel fasteners and all aluminum siding must be electically isolated from contacting copper treated wood. I first learned this the hard way. :R
Wes
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One note of caution when redesigning any camper would be to add a vapor barrier to the ceiling, walls and even floors if possible. Because human generated vapor produces up to one gallon per person per day, the amount of condensed water accumulated in the wood frame structure can easily exceed all but the largest of rain gap leaks.
It is very difficult to determine what is a humidity problem and what is rain intrusion. As an example, humidity collects, and condenses, directly under the vapor resistant roof membrane. Humidity collects particularily in wood that is cooler than normal, because of exterior cool temperature access or contact. These "cool" areas would naturally be around vents, windows and the outer corners of "top plates", or vertical corner studs that do not receive much interior heat-conductive contact, therefore warmth, from the inside. Unfortunately these are the same areas that a concerned consumer expects some rain seepage, and rain intrusion often takes the blame when the damaging water source actually came from within.
From years of full size home construction experience, I estimate that over half of RV water damage problems originally come from interior humidity rather than rain. This large percentage is not true in homes but RV's are different. And it is good to remember that, in spite of failures, all homes now built in the northern cool climate do have attempted vapor barrier protection against interior humidity migration. RV's do not have protection although they are certainly suscepted to the same quantity of vapor diffusion as full size homes... an assault in a lot less wall space.
I would not recommend the use of green treated wood in campers. Most metals, especially zinc and aluminum, react galvanically with the copper. If this treatment is used, it must be fastened with stainless steel fasteners and all aluminum siding must be electically isolated from contacting copper treated wood. I first learned this the hard way. :R
Wes
...
