Forum Discussion
mbloof
May 19, 2022Explorer
otrfun wrote:mbloof wrote:NL used 15-20 ft. of 10 gauge wire for the battery to converter run on our 8-11, too. Like you we got less than 20a of charge current from our 45a PD converter. We replaced the 10 gauge with 2/0 (now get a full 45a). Used 2/0 'cause we sometimes quick charge our lifepo4 using both our 45a converter and 40a dc2dc charger at the same time (85a of total charge current). FWIW, we used a 25 ft run of 2 gauge cable from our truck's battery to the 40a dc2dc charger mounted inside the TC. 43.5a alternator/battery load with 40a of charge current.BFL13 wrote:I think your on the right track here.
Another factor is to keep the input voltage high enough so the DC-DC buck/boost converter can maintain the set output amps and voltage to the camper battery. This is a separate issue from fusing the input side for its wire size, and having the input wire gauge match the input amps.
For camper applications, we have the wiring of the truck, then the connector(s), pigtail and then the wiring in the camper itself.
I swear my 97 Ford had 18AWG wiring! I tapped the output of the alternator and ran to a solenoid (switched on with the engine running) and 6AWG to ~1' of the 7Pin and then spliced in as large of a AWG wire as I could fit. The ground went from the 7Pin to the trucks frame.
At least Lances have 8AWG wire in their pigtails, a quick look at the wire sizes used in most 7Pin cables is 14AWG. :( My NL uses 10AWG to go to the battery.
Lets face it, all wire has resistance and higher currents will create higher voltage drops. Depending on efficiency of the step up charger/converter itself (which BTW 'stepping up' a voltage is difficult to do with anything resembling 'efficient') it could be easily trying to draw 50-60A on the input.
However, given the wiring in the camper itself (and the batteries state of charge) the battery may never see 40A of charge current. For example I recently viewed the charge current at the battery after a 2-day trip that the PD6045Li I have in my NL was providing when I got home. ~19A at the battery. :)
Personally I'm debating getting a 20A or 40A model myself. I do know that some of them have a switch/configuration option to operate at 1/2 power. :)
- Mark0
I've heard of others rewiring from the converter/charger to the batteries with similar results.
Personally, I'm just looking for a 'fail safe' of sorts. If/when it might happen that I'm low on juice and digging the Yamaha out is not convenient, three button presses on the Trucks remote could not be easier. :)
- Mark0.
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