Larger wheels
I've nearly completed converting my axle from over the spring to under it and I've gained a lot of clearance around the tire. So that has me thinking of going to 15" wheel from 14" and move up to a E ...
Forum Discussion
time2roll wrote:mike-s wrote:myredracer wrote:That's this wheel on etrailer's site. It looks like that's a hub centric wheel. You can look at the Dexstar wheel catalog, where they state
Maybe steel rims aren't all the same but our spare rim is like the one in the photo, which is an etrailer.com wheel and I *think* the majority these days are like that.Dexstar wrote:So, for hub centric wheels, you normally wouldn't use cone nuts and the lack of a cone seat on the wheel doesn't matter. If you have cone nuts and there are no cone seats on your wheels, as your posts imply, something's wrong. And if your wheels don't center tightly on the hub, something's dangerously wrong.
Smaller steel wheels up to and including some 16" varieties are normally stud piloted and will typically use a 60-degree cone nut. The cone portion of the nut mates to a matching cone seat in the wheel center...Larger wheels generally will be hub piloted and require
either clamping rings with 90 degree cone nuts to attach them to the hub or they can be mounted with flange nuts directly on the wheel.
wait what? You say hub centric and then quote Dexstar that up to 16" is stud piloted (stud centric).
If you look at the drum there is too much space between the stud and the hub for that wheel to be hub centric. The center hole of the wheel is too big.
etrailer 6 x 5.5 drum
That is because there ARE different drum HUB diameters and why I mentioned about measuring CAREFULLY if you are planning to use a hub centric rim.
Using a hub centric with too large of center will put too much load on the lugs..
On hub centric rims the lugs are there to clamp to rim to the drum surface not center it.
Two different approaches.
