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GordonThree's avatar
GordonThree
Explorer
Aug 26, 2017

Larger wheels

I've nearly completed converting my axle from over the spring to under it and I've gained a lot of clearance around the tire. So that has me thinking of going to 15" wheel from 14" and move up to a E rated tire.

One thing I'm looking at is wheels. There's the basic white or black steelie wheels that look like they get stamped out by the millions by some machine. Then there's fancier wheels, aluminum wheels, etc.

Other than aesthetics, are there advantages to a wheel that costs $100 vs one that costs $25?

20 Replies

  • Maybe steel rims aren't all the same but our spare rim is like the one in the photo, which is an etrailer.com wheel and I *think* the majority these days are like that. Possibly a bit hard to see in the photo but the area that mates up against the drum is flat steel with holes drilled or punched in it for the bolts with no taper to the holes.

    The one in your photo is what you'd typically see on an automotive steel wheel, except that steel wheels on cars isn't that popular now.

    mike-s wrote:
    myredracer wrote:
    One difference is that the bolt holes in steel wheels do not have a chamfered shoulder to match conical shaped bolts (as they ought to), but alloy wheels do however, you don't hear about steel wheels falling off as a result.
    ??

    Trailer wheel are usually lug-centric, and do have lug seats to match the conical nuts.

  • Single axle, only one wheel per side.

    Thinking of the Endurance 225/75/15...?
  • Even though you gained height. You probably did not gain distance between the wheel, unless you moved the axles further apart. I will be surprised if you have enough space to go to 16 inch wheels. Even 15 inch wheels will need to be measured first to be sure they will fit without rubbing together. 15 in wheels with a low aspect ratio should fit but if you go with a high ratio they may not.

    Measure hub center to hub center on the axle and then find out the diameter of the tires you are looking at to figure out if the tires will have a minimum of 1 in between the tires. 2 inches is better since as they heat up they will expand and 3-4 inches is optimal.
  • myredracer wrote:
    One difference is that the bolt holes in steel wheels do not have a chamfered shoulder to match conical shaped bolts (as they ought to), but alloy wheels do however, you don't hear about steel wheels falling off as a result.
    ??

    Trailer wheel are usually lug-centric, and do have lug seats to match the conical nuts.

  • Huntindog wrote:
    GordonThree wrote:
    I've nearly completed converting my axle from over the spring to under it and I've gained a lot of clearance around the tire. So that has me thinking of going to 15" wheel from 14" and move up to a E rated tire.

    One thing I'm looking at is wheels. There's the basic white or black steelie wheels that look like they get stamped out by the millions by some machine. Then there's fancier wheels, aluminum wheels, etc.

    Other than aesthetics, are there advantages to a wheel that costs $100 vs one that costs $25?


    I did just that on my previous TT. When the blowouts continued, (ST LRE tires) I then moved up to 16" rims.
    I suggest that you skip 15s and go straight to 16s... That opens up a vast selection of great tires. The only measurement that might prevent it is the space between the tires. Really should be about an inch. But if I could do it, you probably can too. You likely have 5 lug rims. You will need to swap your drums over to 6 lug drums. They are not that expensive, and come with new bearings, and lug nuts. Do it at bearing repacking time and make the job real easy... No need to clean up the old bearings/drums.
    As for the rims, I actually prefer the steel ones. If I happen to bend one off roading, a hammer can straighten it out pretty easy. Not so with aluminum wheels. Lots of times they crack and won't hold air.


    I agree with 16's. 15 inch tires are becoming rare so I expect the price might become higher eventually.
  • One difference is that the bolt holes in steel wheels do not have a chamfered shoulder to match conical shaped bolts (as they ought to), but alloy wheels do however, you don't hear about steel wheels falling off as a result.
  • GordonThree wrote:
    I've nearly completed converting my axle from over the spring to under it and I've gained a lot of clearance around the tire. So that has me thinking of going to 15" wheel from 14" and move up to a E rated tire.

    One thing I'm looking at is wheels. There's the basic white or black steelie wheels that look like they get stamped out by the millions by some machine. Then there's fancier wheels, aluminum wheels, etc.

    Other than aesthetics, are there advantages to a wheel that costs $100 vs one that costs $25?


    I did just that on my previous TT. When the blowouts continued, (ST LRE tires) I then moved up to 16" rims.
    I suggest that you skip 15s and go straight to 16s... That opens up a vast selection of great tires. The only measurement that might prevent it is the space between the tires. Really should be about an inch. But if I could do it, you probably can too. You likely have 5 lug rims. You will need to swap your drums over to 6 lug drums. They are not that expensive, and come with new bearings, and lug nuts. Do it at bearing repacking time and make the job real easy... No need to clean up the old bearings/drums.
    As for the rims, I actually prefer the steel ones. If I happen to bend one off roading, a hammer can straighten it out pretty easy. Not so with aluminum wheels. Lots of times they crack and won't hold air.
  • My Bigfoot originally came with aluminum wheels.
    The original owner was a retired trucker. He said he would always check everything on the BF trailer before driving and found the lugnuts would loosen up with the aluminum wheels (not sure why?)
    He replaced with steel chrome wheels and went from 5 lug LRC to 6 lug and LRE tires and bigger axles......maybe thats another reason to go steel 80psi?
  • The original reason for alloy wheels was to reduce unsprung weight, which makes the suspension work better. That doesn't matter much for a trailer. Now, it's mostly aesthetics.