Leveling materials

I have a bunch of old pressure treated wood from when I built my deck. About 10. 4X4's 8" long. Maybe 10 or so 2X4's 8" long. And 20 or so deck boards 12" long for under the tires.

And yes, I use almost all of it at least once a year! I use it to level out the picnic table and my small table that I put our fridge on.

ralph day wrote:
6x6 pressure treated block. My twist...buy a door handle and lag it on. You don't have to use 2 hands to pick up the block and can move it about without having to kneel in the dirt.

This...x2

I have a chunk of 8x8 post.

I use four or five 2x6's about 8 inches long.

We use some extra 8 by 8 paving stones we had leftover.

I don't use the plastic blocks, although I do have some. I prefer to use wood instead. I've been using the same blocks and same wood for almost 20 years now and I've not found anything any better.

I use treated lumber blocks, screwed together, 4 layers deep for the tongue. It keeps the tongue jack high enough, the camper will comfortably clear the hitch ball on the truck. If I need to park with the nose low, I'll use a single layer of board.

The supports under the stabilizer jacks came from a support post in an old barn. I imagine those posts were well over 100 years old when I got them. I cut them to length and will stack them sideways, depending upon how high I need them.

In the last 5 or 6 years I've been painting all my lumber so it looks a bit prettier. And with it painted bright colors, I'm not as likely to leave one behind laying in the grass.

I also have 2x4's I used for leveling the picnic table, and 2x6's and 2x8's for under the tires to raise one side to level. The highest I've ever had to level one side of the trailer was about 10 inches. I planned this well in advance and cut up several of those old boards from that old barn to different lengths so they would make a pyramid and I could easily roll the trailer tandem wheel right up them. That was some 15 years ago and been hanging on to the same lumber ever since. Those boards are all painted, and every couple years I paint them a new color. Nothing works better in my opinion. When traveling, I transport them in the side panels of the truck in my contractor's style shell over the pick-up truck bed.

Only 4 high? that's ridiculous, I've used the orange stacking blocks 6 or 7 (or more once in a while) high for 25 years, still works great. I'm still using the ones I bought in the early 1990's. I find them much more stable than wood blocks of any kind because wood warps and is rarely flat as a board (pun intended).

Stacking blocks are perfectly square and level and don't rock. They will also dig down into the dirt or gravel a little as they aren't solid on the bottom, wood blocks can't do that. The stacking blocks lock together, no sliding, wood can't do that, and screws can loosen and even break as the wood warps. Stacking blocks are also a lot lighter and easier to pack than pieces of lumber, stay cleaner too.

I turn the points to the front-rear, side-side to further reduce any chance of rocking.

I took a pressure treated 2x8 and cut it into 4 pieces of various lengths. I stacked them up, creating steps, with each step wide enough to support the foot pad of the jack, and screwed them together. This way I always have a variety of height additions available to put under the jack.

6x6 pressure treated block. My twist...buy a door handle and lag it on. You don't have to use 2 hands to pick up the block and can move it about without having to kneel in the dirt.

I bought a 4x4x8 treated pine fence post and cut it into 1 ft. long pieces. Now I have 8 pieces that I can use anywhere I need them either laying on their sides or standing on the ends.