Lifted truck towing :(

The lift probably derates the GVWR to a certain extent and handling ability.
You are really looking for a POP-UP tent trailer or a new truck.
JMHO

n7bsn wrote:

lastorms wrote:
The trucks components are still only rated for your GVWR i.e. your axle and brakes. The air bags reduce sag but won't increase your GVWR because of this. Hope this helps.

Exactly my point, thanks

You didn't say one way or the other if you also got taller tires with the lift.. (I can't imagine anyone getting a 6" lift and not also getting taller tires)

If you did, did you also get new axle gearing to compensate for the taller tires? Taller tires will affect your final drive ratio and basically bog your engine down if you didn't change gears

Something I forgot, yes the tow rating is based on the actual ratio of engine RPM to miles traveled, bigger tires effects that

Hey Guys,

It's important to note i'm not trying to " justify " anything, I was merely overly concerned with my towing abilities. Yes, I did get larger tires, they are 35" tires.

As for the gearing, while I understand many of you are very used to the traditional 3.21 3.55 3.75 3.92 4.10, etc gearing, that's really not so much an issue. The dodge 8 speed really compensates for the gearing issues. I have 3.21 gears, mostly due to MPG with the larger tires, i had not really intended to tow with this particular rig, so i opted for the best MPG i could get with the larger tires. However, bad gas mileage isn't really going to be a problem, money isn't even really the problem, I mmight just go trade it in on a cummins, however; I'm not 100% me, and my family will enoy camping, i don't want to invest in another 50k truck, and take the 20k loss i'm going to take on the trade in unless i absolutely HAVE to, if that makes sense.

I don't think I know everything, and I certainly know all of you are going to know better than me. I'm merely trying to ascertain what i'm looking at here. Nothing more, nothing less.

The replies are helpful, for sure. As a side note, my RPM's are correct, as is my speedometer. When I ask seemingly rude questions , like " why ", it's not because i'm an ass, it's beacuse I *want* to learn, i dont want to be the keyboard warrior that thought he knew everything. you guys tow these things all the time, I, do not, in fact, ive never owned one. I've towed plenty, but i've never actually made it a hobby or anything, if that makes sense.

The weight i'm describing is a middle between dry, and a little full? the gross on the trailer i want
.

Hitch weight : 858lbs
Gross weight - 9k lbs
Dry weight - 6605lbs

It's the 2017 30USBH Heartland trail runner. I know it's big :( but, i REALLY REALLY like the idea of the " back room " for my children, one of my kids is under 2 years old, and she wakes up if you make noise, i figure the closest i'll get to a " room " is with this trailer. I'd LOVE suggestions if anyone knows a smaller / lighter setup that would offer the same " room " type setup ( outside of the master ?).

Once again, appreciated fellas', please don't mstake my " curiousness " for me being a knowing it all stuck up ahole, that's not what's happening here.

Thanks!

lastorms wrote:
The trucks components are still only rated for your GVWR i.e. your axle and brakes. The air bags reduce sag but won't increase your GVWR because of this. Hope this helps.

Exactly my point, thanks

You didn't say one way or the other if you also got taller tires with the lift.. (I can't imagine anyone getting a 6" lift and not also getting taller tires)

If you did, did you also get new axle gearing to compensate for the taller tires? Taller tires will affect your final drive ratio and basically bog your engine down if you didn't change gears

Something I forgot, yes the tow rating is based on the actual ratio of engine RPM to miles traveled, bigger tires effects that

I`m assuming you have larger tires. Have you changed the axle gears to bring the gearing back to factory specs? have you done anything with the brakes to help with stopping the larger tires? towing with a lifted truck brings up its own set of problems.

The trailer weights you are mentioning, are those dry weight or GVWR? A 7k lb TT will end up with an 875lb tongue weight (12.5% properly loaded). and don't forget the weight of the WD hitch (approx. 125lbs). that's 1000 lbs.

You didn't say one way or the other if you also got taller tires with the lift.. (I can't imagine anyone getting a 6" lift and not also getting taller tires)

If you did, did you also get new axle gearing to compensate for the taller tires? Taller tires will affect your final drive ratio and basically bog your engine down if you didn't change gears.

Not sure what you are trying to justify here? You already weighed your rig with the lift and all, and you came up with your actual payload left.. #500.

That does sound about right for what you have done.

Only you can determine what ratings you want to go with..

I've towed over GVWR on trucks before and the world did not end.. :)

But, that was my choice and it's what I did. But, that's just it.. It was my choice.

Good luck!

Mitch

The trucks components are still only rated for your GVWR i.e. your axle and brakes. The air bags reduce sag but won't increase your GVWR because of this. Hope this helps.

n7bsn wrote:
Your math looks close

However the airbags do not add to GVWR or CGVWG

With that much lift, you might have to lift the trailer also, either that or use a drop hitch (which usually means no sway or equilizer bars)

The trailer needs to be level while towing.

Hmm, if you don't mind me asking, why? I assumed it was due to suspension, but because my lift is UNDER my suspension, i can't imagine that really affecting the actual payload, or, is my logic flawed here?

Your math looks close

However the airbags do not add to GVWR or CGVWG

With that much lift, you might have to lift the trailer also, either that or use a drop hitch (which usually means no sway or equilizer bars)

The trailer needs to be level while towing.