Load Leveling Weight Distribution Hitch

segalldo wrote:
I just purchased a Colman 24' travel trailer. I plan to pull it with a Sequoia 2014 Platinum Series SUV. The SUV comes with two towing features: (1) Electronic Modulated Air Suspension and (2) Adaptive Variable Suspension (AVS) system. I'm trying to figure out if I still need to install Load Leveling Weight Distribution Hitch, or if I'm OK without it.

My comments match others, but I actually own a Sequoia. Its no 3500 series truck, but its one of the top 3 large SUV's for towing in my book.

I tow a similar size trailer with my 2010 Sequoia Limited. The 2010 is rated for 9100, but the later models dropped 2k to 7100lbs with the new SAE towing standard Toyota now abides by. And there is no stated tongue weight for with vs without WDH. (7100lbs is low for this SUV IMO...and if other manufactures tested by the SAE standard, their ratings would drop too...so its a bit unfair)

With a 450-500lb trailer tongue, my rear end will drop visually, but it is still an acceptable tow. (looks fine, handles just fine) With your platinum leveling, you'd be just fine for occasional towing.

However, with WDH attached, its noticeably better and not just because the SUV is level. The rear doesn't travel as much, because the WDH bars act like additional load bearing springs. Plus, many WDH's come with some sort of anti-sway built in. A very popular and decently priced WDH is the Equalizer.

Thanks everyone for the great advice!

Yes you should use a wdh. A little tip from someone who has been there... with that style suspension, make your wdh adjustments by scaled weights and not measurements as that suspension will change your measurements without actually transferring weight. We had a rough time figuring it out but I had a lot of wonderful help here to figure it out. Barney was one of the ones who was instrumental to figuring it out, listen to him, he knows what he's doing.

WD hitch also stops hitch bounce. This saves taking dramamine on I-10 and several other sections of other highways.

I strongly recommend one with your setup. The suspension options on your Sequoia help to level your vehicle, but they don't help to actually distribute the additional weight that will be placed on the rear end of your vehicle by the RV. A WDH will actually move some of the weight from the rear axle of your vehicle to the front axle, which helps to prevent overload of the rear axle and will improve the towing stability.

Plus, as mentioned above, I predict that you'll be over the weight capacity of your hitch without a WDH.

BarneyS wrote:

DutchmenSport wrote:
Snip...

Some may also say, with a 3500 dually, why do you need WD bars? I say, why not? They provide so much more stability when towing.

Snip..

That is true. However, regardless of whether the truck is a 3500 dually or a 1500 single axle, the same amount of weight is removed from the front axle when you drop that tongue on the ball.

Since the purpose of a WD hitch is to restore lost weight from the front axle then it does not matter what type of truck you have. If the hitch weight is heavy enough to require WD you should use it.
Barney

True, we use a WD hitch on our dually for our race hauler; does make a difference with the handling.

Check your owners manual and receiver for tongue weight limits in weight carrying mode. 500-600 pounds is typical and a 24' TT will probably be near that. IMHO, 400 pounds of TW is about when I think a WDH is useful on half ton vehicles. And if you need a WDH, then I highly recommend one with integrated sway control like Equal-izer 4-pt or Reese Strait Line. Check out this thread to learn more about WDH.

Air bags/air suspension do not restore any weight to the front axle that is lost by dropping a trailer tongue on the ball.

To answer I will have to make some assumptions. Your receiver is probably rated to carry a maximum of 500 pounds tongue weight without weight distribution. A 24' trailer will probably be over 500 pounds tongue weight when loaded and ready to camp.

So yes, you most likely need a weight distribution hitch.

DutchmenSport wrote:
Snip...

Some may also say, with a 3500 dually, why do you need WD bars? I say, why not? They provide so much more stability when towing.

Snip..

That is true. However, regardless of whether the truck is a 3500 dually or a 1500 single axle, the same amount of weight is removed from the front axle when you drop that tongue on the ball.

Since the purpose of a WD hitch is to restore lost weight from the front axle then it does not matter what type of truck you have. If the hitch weight is heavy enough to require WD you should use it.
Barney

I think if you get WD you'll NOT be disappointed. If you decide to get a WD system, you might also think about your future tow vehicle and future camper too, and go for one that's a little more "robust" so you won't end up purchasing a new system every time you switch vehicles or trailers. We used the same Reese WD system (bars on chains and a separate sway bar) on the following combinations:

Suburban and 18 foot Dutchmen
3500 dually gas PU truck and 18 foot Dutchmen
3500 dually gas PU truck and 31 foot Keystone
3500 dually diesel PU truck and 35 foot Outback

We then switched to an Equal-i-zer hitch when we bout the new truck this year:
3500 dually diesel PU truck and 35 foot Outback.

Some may also say, with a 3500 dually, why do you need WD bars? I say, why not? They provide so much more stability when towing.

Be safe, be smart, you have to much invested in your rig. Don't cheap out when it comes to towing. That's the MOST important part of owning a trailer of any sort ... to SAFELY and COMFORTABLY transport the camper back and forth. Think about it, and please don't cheap out! Your family will thank-you for it!