jerem0621 wrote:
Thanks for the feedback... I was referencing the payload sticker in the door jamb of vehicles as 'silly'...they do not reflect the max tire loading at all... go look on any new auto and compare the payload stickers tire load rating to the stamp on the sidewalls of the tires... for most half tons the sticker is figured at 36-40 PSI...as an example... air the tires up to max sidewall pressure and the sticker no longer reflects what the tires themselves can carry...same if you air the tires down... most P rated truck tires have a max PSI of 44-50 PSI nowadays.
It is my understanding that the payload sticker is figured with OEM tires on the factory floor at the stated PSI on the sticker...please correct me if I am wrong about this.
Add aftermarket bed covers, side steps, tool box, load range E tires, or big knobby tires and the payload sticker on the door jamb becomes irrelevant.
Every "how much can I tow" thread agrees with me that the payload sticker is silly... especially when the advice is given to go fill up your gas tank and go weigh the truck and subtract the scale weight from the GVWR to get your real payload... that advice is saying ignore the payload sticker and use a scale to verify real payload vs the real world.
Just so I am clear, I agree,the stamp ratings on the tire sidewalls are absolute DOT enforceable and NOT to be exceeded.
Thanks!
Jeremiah
First off, the payload rating rates the entire truck. The payload rating is only as strong as its weakest link--which could be the frame, suspension, tires, etc. If you use the proper OEM recommended size/load/speed rated tires at the PSI recommended on the door jam sticker your tires will support the stated payload rating. Change any of these parameters and all bets are off.
Secondly, the door jam payload rating sticker on your truck is accurate the moment it leaves the factory. It sounds like you expect the payload rating sticker to be some kind of artifically intelligent assistant that calculates all these variables after the truck leaves the factory. That sounds silly to me. After your truck leaves the dealership, it's up to you, as the owner of the truck, to practice due diligence, and keep tabs on any modifications or changes that may effect the payload rating. In my mind, not any more difficult (or silly) than keeping track of needed maintenance.
If I take the time to completely empty my truck, and deduct/add the weight for mods after my truck left the factory, I've found my OEM payload sticker to be accurate.