Forum Discussion

UrbanNomads's avatar
UrbanNomads
Explorer
Apr 04, 2016

Looking for maintenance tips for new camper.

I just bought a new 2016 Keystone Couger X-lite 21 RBS with a polar package. I am a bit skeptical about the polar package but I live in Georgia so I’m not to worried. Although I plan to visit family in the northern states in the fall time frame. Also I did notice that when I cut the access flap in the plastic material on the bottom for the slide motor I noticed the water lines were bare. I might put some insulation on them if I do go to colder climates. A strange thing though, there is no sealant around any of the windows. It is sealed quite well with the rubber that’s around the window frame but there is a small gap and you can see the rubber seal but you would think that they would put sealant around the windows to fill in the gap. I’ll have to take care of that. It does have the Wood, Foam, Wood floor and I am OK with that, I’m not thrilled but I’ll live with it. Also It has fiberglass walls and front cap. The plumbing is routed through the floor to the outside, which I love that idea. Also one slideout.

So all this babel leads me to ask for:

Tips on maintenance upkeep for the walls (what wax, cleaner to use), windows, floors, tanks, sealant to use for windows, doors and compartments and any other things that might come up.

Thanks for any input.
  • If you search this Forum in the Travel Trailer section you will find more than 500 previous posts; all very valuable for a newbie.
  • Don't use any silicone based product on the exterior. Dicor or Geocel Tripolymer sealants are good for doors, windows, etc. Any good auto or marine cleaner and wax will be good for the outside. Some folks swear by a certain product but "hands on" is your best product. Tanks only need water to operate. Some soap on occasion is a good thing and some oil on the toilet flapper is worthwhile. If you want the inside of your tanks to smell like a garden, there are products for that, too.

    Most RV maintenance is practical sense like paying attention to the roof where pipes and vents are sealed. I'm an old school equipment mechanic so I don't trust anyone else's work. If I had a new trailer, I would be pulling the hubs, checking brakes and repacking the bearings. I'd also check wiring and plumbing. There are too many bad stories that come out of the factory and a simple twist with a screwdriver or wrench can save a lot of future aggravation.

    Good luck with your new rig!
  • Why is the silicone bad, other than being a panel to get off. I have heard stories for and against silicone.
  • UrbanNomads wrote:
    Why is the silicone bad, other than being a panel to get off. I have heard stories for and against silicone.


    It becomes rubbery with poor adhesive and begins to leak. Its difficult to apply a new caulk in its place because its too slippery.
    Dicor, Proflex rv and Geocel are made for rv use with uv protection.
  • UrbanNomads wrote:
    Why is the silicone bad, other than being a panel to get off. I have heard stories for and against silicone.
    Put some on a light piece of metal, plastic, or rubber and let it sit in the sun for a year or so. Post back with a report.
  • Community Alumni's avatar
    Community Alumni
    There's nothing wrong with silicone until it fails. It's not all that durable so it will definitely fail. When it's time to replace it nothing will stick to it, even more silicone. It's pretty difficult to remove from surfaces so proper repairs are time consuming. There are much better alternatives like Dicor.

    Wash and wax it just like you would with a car. Stay away from harsh cleaners and abrasive cleaning tools. I use 303 Aerospace Protectant for my decals / dark trim and NuFinish on the rest.

    Get up on the roof a couple times a year and inspect caulking and seams for cracks and repair them. While you're up there you can clean the roof. There's no need for wax or anything else up there. Just a little bit of car wash then rinse off.

    For the tanks a cheap tank wand is pretty effective at keeping it clean. Some type of lubricating in the tank will help prevent sticking valves. Something like dish soap. Lots of people like to use the GEO method. If you go that route subtract the bleach. It's not necessary, isn't very helpful when it comes to maintaining your seals, and isn't helpful to the septic system you'll be dumping into. It's not like you're going to be washing dishes in the tank or anything. Don't let the toilet seal get dry which can happen when the trailer is stored for long periods. The water evaporates then the seal dries and shrinks. A little bit of cooking oil works.

    Keep an eye on your exposed metal bits on your undercarriage for any signs of rust. Stay on top of it to make sure it doesn't turn into bigger problems. Stay on top of your tire pressures especially when it's stored. Letting the tires get low while in storage will help shorten their useful life. Inspect your brake wiring every once in a while for pinch points, chafing, or damage to wires. Last thing you want is to have to try to stop the entire rig at the wrong time because your brakes have failed.

    The list goes on and on. Just be mindful about all of the little pieces and create a maintenance schedule for each.