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Mr__C's avatar
Mr__C
Explorer
Jun 29, 2022

Low Battery Voltage

2020 Keystone Cougar 26RBS. After a 4hr trip home, low voltage prevented the slide from opening. The fridge was running during the trip. Plugged in and opened the slide. The next day I had the battery tested and it's fine. I verified that the truck charges the battery. Yesterday, with battery at 13.6, I unplugged. Fridge was running. This AM, 6.3 volts.

What direction do I need to head? Only the fridge and propane detector were running on the battery.
  • Mr. C wrote:
    valhalla360 wrote:
    Mr. C wrote:
    OK. Regardless of all of this, I'll be getting a new battery. Went to Harbor Freight and got a cheap load tester and a CenTech 30a Circuit Tester #67724. Also cheap. It replaces the fuse and reads the amperage. I could get the battery to read bad if I kept the load on for 10sec. Interstate RV/Deep Cycle. 405CCA, 505MCA.

    Fridge circuit .8-1.3
    Propane detector circuit .2
    The TV antenna is on one of the circuits and can't be turned off like in our last camper.

    Converter voltage 13.6

    Voltage at the truck plug 12.6

    So, is the AGM battery worth the extra $100 compared to a flooded battery?

    When parked at home, the camper is always plugged in. Good or bad? Or should I just use a battery tender?

    Thanks for the input and help...


    The AGM offers nothing in your situation (one battery-rarely off grid). More importantly, until you are sure there isn't a systemic problem, no chance burning up a more expensive battery.


    Can I assume that the amp readings on those 2 circuits are normal? All other circuits were 0...


    Yeah, that sounds fairly normal. What was the amperage direct off the battery terminal (this should include everything)? If it's 1-2amps, there's no major hidden draw.

    Overnight (say 14hrs), that should be 14-28amp-hrs, which shouldn't kill a fully charged battery in good condition. (It might be down to 60-70% by morning but certainly not 6v which is beyond dead).
  • valhalla360 wrote:
    Mr. C wrote:
    valhalla360 wrote:
    Mr. C wrote:
    OK. Regardless of all of this, I'll be getting a new battery. Went to Harbor Freight and got a cheap load tester and a CenTech 30a Circuit Tester #67724. Also cheap. It replaces the fuse and reads the amperage. I could get the battery to read bad if I kept the load on for 10sec. Interstate RV/Deep Cycle. 405CCA, 505MCA.

    Fridge circuit .8-1.3
    Propane detector circuit .2
    The TV antenna is on one of the circuits and can't be turned off like in our last camper.

    Converter voltage 13.6

    Voltage at the truck plug 12.6

    So, is the AGM battery worth the extra $100 compared to a flooded battery?

    When parked at home, the camper is always plugged in. Good or bad? Or should I just use a battery tender?

    Thanks for the input and help...


    The AGM offers nothing in your situation (one battery-rarely off grid). More importantly, until you are sure there isn't a systemic problem, no chance burning up a more expensive battery.


    Can I assume that the amp readings on those 2 circuits are normal? All other circuits were 0...


    Yeah, that sounds fairly normal. What was the amperage direct off the battery terminal (this should include everything)? If it's 1-2amps, there's no major hidden draw.

    Overnight (say 14hrs), that should be 14-28amp-hrs, which shouldn't kill a fully charged battery in good condition. (It might be down to 60-70% by morning but certainly not 6v which is beyond dead).


    1.1-1.2amps at the new battery, measured with my new DCa clamp-on meter. Also have a new battery tester and a new 12v circuit tester. All good things to have, and it took a simple problem for me to get them. I'm glad it was just the battery all along.