Low point drain line caps nightmare

gmckenzie wrote:

ZINGERLITE wrote:
I went and bought plastic valves from the plumbing section at lowes and screwed them onto the 3/4" fittings where the caps go. No more need for caps. Just turn the valves.

I did the same with mine as well as the fresh water tank drain. Much easier to deal with.

I've done three campers with 3/4" valves. Works for me.
Lowes and Farm Town have lots of things that might not be mentioned
as for a camper, but they work very well.

bob213 wrote:
Try amazon: ASIN: B00IRUKIO8 or do as suggested and buy pex valves and be done with it.

I bought these from Zoro tools.com


Or these from Amazon
valve

these do work great... easy peasy

Just put some teflon tape on the threads and put the caps on as tight as you can without tools. The worse that will happen is they will drip a little. Chances are they will be fine.

racer4 wrote:
Is this the right size and type of valve?

1/2" PEX x FNPT Polymer Ball Valve Inline

I want to order valves to replace the caps on my low point drain lines.

That's what I have.

Interesting that you have caps on the end of your low point drains. On my Jayco J Flight 23RB, the two low point drains have nothing on the ends. They just hang down, through the Cloroplast belly cover. The drain valves for the two drain lines are inside the trailer.

I also have two fresh water drain lines. Each of these has a pet **** style valve at the end of the drains.

I feel your pain.

On my TT it had "plugs" that screwed into a part that was permanently mounted on the outside of the low point drains. They had rubber cone shaped washers in them that no one carried in stock. I rigged up something for years. Then last year I snapped off one of the parts that was on the outside of the line.

There was no hope of repair after that.

I got through the season by putting a lot of Teflon tape and a rubber o-ring on a standard bolt and forcefully turning it up into the line. Surprisingly, that worked. If it doesn't work again this year I don't know what I will do. It is some weird size that standard plumbing stores don't have.

Someone said it was Quest Tubing. Whatever that is. No one around here has ever heard of it.

Lemonhead78 wrote:

So what am I suppose to do. I checked hardware stores and the rv parts department where I bought trailer it and no one can help. I’m getting depressed over this. I called forest river and that was a joke.

At this point I would put some water in the system and pressurize it and see what happens. If water comes out then look for a valve inside the trailer. On mine the valves spin, but in actuality I have to press them down until they snap into the housing to turn them off.

If it still leaky put the caps on with one missing gasket and see what happens under pressure. It's possible they all seal and you're back in business.

ZINGERLITE wrote:
I went and bought plastic valves from the plumbing section at lowes and screwed them onto the 3/4" fittings where the caps go. No more need for caps. Just turn the valves.

almost the same here. But I used quarter turn metal ball valves. much easier to turn than the plastic valves.

Lemonhead78 wrote:

mobeewan wrote:
If the cap is a Flair-it cap and looks like the one in the link, there is no gasket. Those caps are used to cap Flair-it fitting where the PEX tubing has been removed. They seat against the Barb the PEX normally slips over before tightening the nut used to hold the PEX to the fitting. They will hold pressure up to the rating of the fitting, valve or PEX tubing without a gasket.

I have a couple I keep on hand in case I have a plumbing problem and have to disconnect a piece of PEX until I would have time to make a repair. I used one once to temporarily cap a tee I added where I was adding a new PEX line where I was installing a captive air tank. I still needed to use the trailers fresh water system before I had time to finish the tank install.

So what am I suppose to do. I checked hardware stores and the rv parts department where I bought trailer it and no one can help. I’m getting depressed over this. I called forest river and that was a joke.

Okay my understanding is that you have all three caps, but you believe the one cap is missing a gasket. if the one cap matches the picture that you found online no gasket is needed he just needs to be threaded back on. If there is a valve above where the cap was screwed on then you're fine as long as the valve is closed. You do not need to put the cap back on.

My freshwater tank drain has a Flair-it male pipe thread x PEX connector screwed into the tank. Then there is a short piece of PEX, then a Flair-it valve. I I think it might have came with a cap on the end of the valve. The valve doesn't need one and I didn't feel like crawling under the trailer just to remove the cap on a valve, so I left it off and the cap did not have or need a gasket just like the one in the link you posted.

If you have PEX tubing coming off the fresh water tank drain with no valves you will need to screw the cap back on. Otherwise the tank will drain through that fitting.

You say you have the cap and don't know if it needs a gasket. Can you take a couple pictures of the cap and post them other than just saying will it looks like this one and it looks like the gasket is missing.

There are so many different ways low point drains and tank drains can be configured. With valves and caps, with valves and without caps. With caps only, with valves inside the trailer at the floor that have open end tubing going through the floor to the underside of the trailer, etc, etc.

Can you get someone to crawl under the trailer and take a photograph of the freshwater tank drain and the 2 low point drains to see what the fittings on the end of the lines look like. There has to be a fitting or a valve because the cap was removed from something.

Is this the right size and type of valve?

1/2" PEX x FNPT Polymer Ball Valve Inline

I want to order valves to replace the caps on my low point drain lines.