Forum Discussion
37 Replies
- ksg5000Explorer III wonder whether using some of that blue furnace filter media available at any big box would help - should provide some air flow but may not be strong enough to hold up. Wouldn't cost much to test out.
- Kayteg1Explorer IIPer my experience main moisture source was condensation dripping from front window.
- JIMNLINExplorer IIIWhen I had truck campers in the '60s/'70s the hot ticket for cold soak and dampness under the bed was several thick layers of card board. Fridge card board was much prefered.
When warm weather came we removed the card board and either saved it for next winter or trash canned it.
Some low cost TC over head beds were just plywood and no insulation or framework. The bottom of the overhead bed would sag badly.
Later my first 5th wheel rv trailer (1984) had a 2"X2" frame work under the bed but no insulation. As another poster mentioned I used a sheet of 5/8" insulboard under the mattress. No sweats and no cold soak. - ajridingExplorer IIThe problem with drying it out is that it is getting wet still. Wet is bad, icky, nasty and mold can still form.
styrofoam could work in that it reduces the temp difference, but your body is still evaporating a lot of moisture no matter what the mattress is doing, the mesh (or any means of moving air under) will move that moisture so it does not get trapped in the mattress itself.
a 5th or camper slide-out is the same as a TC, anything where the mattress sits on an outside surface will have moisture issues. - toddbExplorerden dry is another solution.
- rhagfoExplorer III
ajriding wrote:
Hypervent
http://www.doityourselfrv.com/prevent-under-mattress-mold-hypervent/
I put a board by the mattress (east/west bed) and gave it a few inches of space from the mattress and wall. I then put a board separating the mattress from the hypervent mesh so that the blanket would not drop down and block the vent and prevent air from moving. This board you cannot see, but the board goes a few inches under the mattress and the mattress sits on it.
Here is a pic looking up at the board and you can see some mesh under the mattress.
from this
to this
I put the fridge back in to sell it
and, no, the drawers did not make the curtain do that
This makes so much sense! we don't have a camper, but have had issues with condensation in our 5er bed slide-out, I simply placed a couple 2X4's at the head of the bed to keep the mattress away from the wall. This stuff works the same way air circulation - billyray50ExplorerUsed to use a product called Dry mesh which is cheaper version of hypervent but had troubles buying more for another TC. Honestly the best results I have had was blue foam board from Lowes. It works!
- NaioExplorer IIFor a low-tech solution, I stick something under the center of the mattress to lift it up a bit, every morning except when I forget.
Currently I'm using a long fiberglass level, but I have used things like small cardboard boxes or empty water bottles or whatever. It doesn't matter what you use, just get some air under there. - ajridingExplorer IIHypervent
http://www.doityourselfrv.com/prevent-under-mattress-mold-hypervent/
I put a board by the mattress (east/west bed) and gave it a few inches of space from the mattress and wall. I then put a board separating the mattress from the hypervent mesh so that the blanket would not drop down and block the vent and prevent air from moving. This board you cannot see, but the board goes a few inches under the mattress and the mattress sits on it.
Here is a pic looking up at the board and you can see some mesh under the mattress.
from this
to this
I put the fridge back in to sell it
and, no, the drawers did not make the curtain do that - erranteExplorer IIIWe have used hypervent on both boats and truck campers. Available from defender industries and fisheries supply. Check shipping as one is in your area and the other is east coast.
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