Molding Around Everything Outside

Gdetrailer, Looks like I will be removing and re-caulking everything. I do prefer to do over kill (do it right) and not have to do it again to soon.

Calicajun wrote:



Thanks all, now I know what to look for at the RV store.
As for removing the windows, frames and hatches, it not something I thought would be required but does sound like the best way to go. Now long does the new caulking last? Our old 1992 Holiday Ramber (new when we bought it) the caulking lasted for the four years we owned the trailer.

Slathering on caulking around the perimeter of a door frame or window frame will only temporarily "seal" the surface crack you can see. It doesn't however provide any new contact area for the caulking take hold of..

The result is hidden cracks that will very quickly break through the new caulk on the surface.

Additionally as the butyl caulking ages it hardens and loses it's tacky properties.. This creates little tiny voids between the frame and body of the RV that allows water to wick past the caulking..

Butyl caulking is also destroyed by UV light making the outside edge harden faster than the inside..

You will often find the caulk rock hard near the outside edge but still be somewhat soft inside.. The problem with leaving it this way is the water will keep wicking down the hard part until the caulking fails..

Many will disagree with full removal of the window and door frames but I have found out over the years that it works best and lasts longer than slathering new stuff around the edges..

Typically butyl caulking is good for 5-6 yrs and then after that it is a guess just how long before failure.. Sort of depends on your local weather..

Around my area, winter is pretty hard on caulking especially if water is starting to wick into the caulk.. The freeze/thaw cycles can do a number on making cracks in the caulk grow overnight.

Just a quick reminder, not everyone who works at a RV store knows what products are good/bad for your purpose.

I recently noticed that I need to caulk around our marker lights and stopped at CW to pick up some Dicor. The nice young man stocking the store was pointing me towards the self leveling type. I nicely explained that was great on the roof, but I needed the non-leveling kind for what I was doing (the poor kid was even at a loss for what I meant by marker lights).

Molding = sealant = butyl bedding compound = Dicor/Proflex ? Is everyone talking about the same thing here? I got the impression the OP noticed the perimeter sealant around windows, doors, seams was loosening.

For lights, doors, windows, hatches you use butyl rubber rope caulking which can be bought at most any RV dealer. Kind of a grey looking putty which is a rope form. It is very sticky and comes rolled with a release paper backing.

The very best way is to remove the window frame/door frame/hatch, from the trailer.

Then you can scrape off the old caulk clean with mineral spirits then put new caulking rope around the perimeter. Then reinstall the item..

REMOVING THE OLD CAULK IS the only way to do it, plastering new caulk around the outside edges only makes you feel good and wastes your money AND the life of the RV..

Thanks all, now I know what to look for at the RV store.
As for removing the windows, frames and hatches, it not something I thought would be required but does sound like the best way to go. Now long does the new caulking last? Our old 1992 Holiday Ramber (new when we bought it) the caulking lasted for the four years we owned the trailer.

Calicajun wrote:
Brought our 2775RB Heartland Wilderness trailer home to wash and de-winterize. Noticed while washing the trailer that all the molding around everything, lights, seams, windows and around all the doors was either gone or dried up and flaking off. Leaving a great way for water to get in and cause a problem.

What should be used to re-seal everything? Read somewhere in here, can't seem to find it again, not to use Silicone which would have been my first choice. Plus while on the subject of up keep. What is suggested for keeping the fiberglass sides from fading or reduce the fading?

Thanks,
Craig

For lights, doors, windows, hatches you use butyl rubber rope caulking which can be bought at most any RV dealer. Kind of a grey looking putty which is a rope form. It is very sticky and comes rolled with a release paper backing.

The very best way is to remove the window frame/door frame/hatch, from the trailer.

Then you can scrape off the old caulk clean with mineral spirits then put new caulking rope around the perimeter. Then reinstall the item..

REMOVING THE OLD CAULK IS the only way to do it, plastering new caulk around the outside edges only makes you feel good and wastes your money AND the life of the RV..

Dicor non-leveling or Proflex. Dicor also makes a self leveling sealant, for use on horizontal (roof) surfaces.

You most likely, did see a warning to not use silicone. Silicone looses it's stick (doesn't stand up to the weather) and leaves a residue, that prevents other sealants from sticking. That residue is difficult to remove.

Automotive wax, helps to prevent fading.

Dicor