More ongoing poor workmanship to fix...
Have had our current TT for 2 1/2 years and it has seen 3 seasons of use. There's been quite a few ongoing problems to fix since we've had it, some minor and some serious. Just when I thought I'm ab...
Forum Discussion
93Cobra2771 wrote:Right, this is just the problem. It is a design issue, probably influenced by the "bean counters", trying to minimize the amount of material in the trailer. Heck, an aluminum or magnesium support could have been used and that would last a lifetime. It costs a lot more too!
My bed was sagging in the middle due to thin plywood and a single 1x2 running longways as a "backbone". 1/x2 was mounted flat, so it was failing as a backbone. The 1x2 came unglued/unattached on one end. I ended up making a support under the bed out of 2x4's and now all is good. But seriously, 1/2" plywood for a queen mattress with a single 1x2?
When I disassembled my '71 Starcraft, there were issues with bracing and material used. That is 40 years ago when materials weren't that expensive and builders were able to use a sufficient amount. So, material expense was on the minds of RV mfg's even that far back. Luckily, I still have a completely boxed frame rail underneath and an aluminum sheet clad under-belly. We won't be getting that anymore unless someone decides to throw away the calculator and is able to pass the cost on to the end user.
The OP mentioned the paint underneath and I'd suggest to get one of the rust resistant paints like Por15 or that Phospho brand (name escapes me). An alternative is to treat the surface rust with a Phosphoric acid based cleaner, prime with industrial primer, and topcoat with a real durable paint. The second is a real labor intensive deal and working underneath is a messy affair. I've done some steel boat and equipment painting so it isn't scary but I know what's involved. That's why my frame has a fine patina of rust and I don't look at it a lot, lol.
