Need Help Replacing Servie Panel

The saga continues..

When I left off yesterday, I was stumped on how to pull my old service panel with the valve cables. It turns out that this is very easy once you drop the eighth inch plywood bottom of the camper. There does not appear to be any caulking around these panels. I guess that it's just as well that they drain any water that might get in. This is a very easy job. There are about thirty small screws securing the ply to aluminum frame members. Once open, you can access the blade valves, an allen wrench and a phillips driver will disconnect the cable and housing so they may be pulled throught the service panel. I then reinforced the new panel with some aluminum angle stock and pop rivets. I was ready to finish the job and decided to check the welds on the frames supporting the fresh and black tanks. When I opened the bottom, part of the frame bracket fell out onto the ground - see photo. Two of the three verticle frame pieces in the front of the water tank had broken welds and were dangling uselessly. The horizontal frame members were all fine and looked like they had been machine welded, probably from a supplier. Their welds were perfect. The verticles were horrible spot welds. My camper is a 2005 which is the first or second year that Lance began using aluminum for frames. I hope that they have learned how to weld since then. There is no danger of the tank falling while the TC in on the truck, but pretty dicey off the truck. I can fix the one break with a screwed on plate, the other one is so hard to get to, I have not really figured out how to do it. I may just screw a metal strap to connect the top and bottom frame pieces.
I guess after all the years and miles, including lots of washboard and rough roads, this is to be expected, but the crappy spot welds are inexcusable from a company like Lance. I'll post some more pics of my fixes.

Double post deleted.

Also think about using plastic for reinforcement..I suggest Starboard...it is very good stuff and is not very flexible even the thin stuff...used on boats all the time...does not like glue or adhesive it is a mechanical securing method to hold in place, screws or bolts. It can be heat welded too if yo have the proper tips and heat gun. Show us pics of your solutions and when you get things apart. Good post.

I pulled the bottom off to replace and found all the tank support frames cracked and several other issues.(05 model AF)

Corrected all the issues, learned how the mfgr put it together, added more tank support, and added more insulation.

If your doing your own work it's always good to know how it's put together.

Looked briefly, this thread http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25168579.cfm
Makes it sounds as cable has full sheath and is attached to the valve(s)? Sounds like you verified. Short of Lance responding, and not second guessing might look at that if you can see/access. It also sounds as though bottom removal doable, possibly an access panel on the 1181. I assume nothing behind that can be easily disconnect. But it does appear access to valves required.

Mine Id be circumventing need to remove the bottom, IF valve access could be had with panel removed. In that case, with everything else loose verifying only the sheaths are holding, possibly deep hole saw to cut around the hex on old panel. Redrill the new panel so sheaths can pass thru, use slotted washers to recapture, since your backing up panel anyway. But removing bottom or whatever is needed might in the long run be easier, then its do you replace the valve while your there?

Mayo30 - That's a great idea. I found the installation instructions from Valterra and yes, I would have to disconnect the cable from the valve in the guts of my camper involving removing the bottom skin. I think that I will do that anyway to see what is going on down there after all of this time.

Seeing the flat side of the one tube you have protruding would cause me to put a wrench on the tube and another on the head nut. Wrench in opposite directions to see if the head nut will come loose.

Good you want to reinforce the new section,so key hole the new part down from the top and then slide the old section with the cables intact down into place in front of the new section.cut the old piece as large as you want, and pop rivet it to the new section behind it, which gives you twice the thickness of the original.Still retain labels too.Reinforce all you want when they are in place.

Thanks for the suggestion,but the reason the panel is cracked is because it is to flimsy to withstand the pulling on the valves. I plan to reinforce the new one with some angle aluminum across the top, so the key hole idea is out. I sent a query to a Lance dealer and it will be interesting to see what he says.

You might have to cut a keyhole notch just wide enough to slide the cable down from the top of the panel. Hopefully there's a better solution though.

Bruce