New AF - a few winter questions.
Hello all, I am rather new to RVing but long time backpacker and outdoorsman. I chose to go with an Arctic Fox 990 after much research and scouring these boards for a long time. I camp year round...
Forum Discussion
So true that most TC's and/or RV's do not have the inside the RV surfaces insulated on their battery compartments, propane tank compartments, and the electric shore power cord storage compartments, among other next to the cold outside areas/compartments.
I always have covered both the inside of these compartments where possible with a layer of foil bubble wrap and tape the joints with Gorilla Tape so there's now air leaks I can see. And, layer the bubble wrap over the inside the RV structure surfaces of as many of the compartment surfaces I can get to with the same bubble wrap and Gorilla Tape those joints also. Stops so much of the cold thermal transfer and also stops sweating on the warm side of these areas too.
A double yes to a layer of foil bubble wrap on the inside surface of the opening roof vents as they are a big source of heat thermal transfer. Also the cab over escape hatch cover inside surface too. Because of the concave shape of the roof hatch plastic covers, I haven't had to double stick tape the foil bubble wrap to the cover as cut just slightly larger than the inside area of the hatch covers and pushed in to hug the plastic cover shape, the very light weight bubble wrap wedges itself in and stays right in place and yet very easily removable leaving no residues.
Also helps to add a layer of foil bubble wrap taped to the inside surface of outside storage etc compartment thin doors too. You can't see the added bubble wrap until you open the compartment door anyway and it's added insulation.
Remember that what is insulation for heat loss is also insulation for A/C cooling loss! A win win result and that's only part of the real gains. Condensation gathering and/or dripping is virtually eliminated and it becomes much quieter inside the RV from outside noises too.
Personally, I'll take inside storms on windows over dual pane windows anytime for several reasons. Easy to make and much cheaper too, a much thicker dead air space than with dual pane windows so much more efficient, they cover more of the window frame with second glazing overlapping so considerably less window frame sweating in very cold (below zero F outside) temps, stops more of the outside noise, easily removable for summer use when screens are more desirable for ventilation, to name a few more benefits.
Glass storms used to be an option offered for most RV Hehr windows but haven't seen them available for years now so I make my own as it's so easy. I actually prefer .220 acrylic or Plexiglas because it's strong and stable and much lighter in weight and so much harder to break than glass. Yes, you can scratch it if you try but easily replaced and you already have the exact pattern for a good fit. Just cut a new one with a saber saw before removing the plastic cover protection sheet on both sides and sand the edges smooth.
We are big fans of winter camping in the north and so easy to do with a TC on a 4X4 truck vs a towable or MH which really don't like slippery or snow covered roads a bit and upside down in a ditch is no fun at all! We have and have had many TT's, 5th wheels, and MH's (A's & C's) over the last 50+ years and have learned what works best in real up north winter RV'ing/camping/traveling!
To each their own!
I always have covered both the inside of these compartments where possible with a layer of foil bubble wrap and tape the joints with Gorilla Tape so there's now air leaks I can see. And, layer the bubble wrap over the inside the RV structure surfaces of as many of the compartment surfaces I can get to with the same bubble wrap and Gorilla Tape those joints also. Stops so much of the cold thermal transfer and also stops sweating on the warm side of these areas too.
A double yes to a layer of foil bubble wrap on the inside surface of the opening roof vents as they are a big source of heat thermal transfer. Also the cab over escape hatch cover inside surface too. Because of the concave shape of the roof hatch plastic covers, I haven't had to double stick tape the foil bubble wrap to the cover as cut just slightly larger than the inside area of the hatch covers and pushed in to hug the plastic cover shape, the very light weight bubble wrap wedges itself in and stays right in place and yet very easily removable leaving no residues.
Also helps to add a layer of foil bubble wrap taped to the inside surface of outside storage etc compartment thin doors too. You can't see the added bubble wrap until you open the compartment door anyway and it's added insulation.
Remember that what is insulation for heat loss is also insulation for A/C cooling loss! A win win result and that's only part of the real gains. Condensation gathering and/or dripping is virtually eliminated and it becomes much quieter inside the RV from outside noises too.
Personally, I'll take inside storms on windows over dual pane windows anytime for several reasons. Easy to make and much cheaper too, a much thicker dead air space than with dual pane windows so much more efficient, they cover more of the window frame with second glazing overlapping so considerably less window frame sweating in very cold (below zero F outside) temps, stops more of the outside noise, easily removable for summer use when screens are more desirable for ventilation, to name a few more benefits.
Glass storms used to be an option offered for most RV Hehr windows but haven't seen them available for years now so I make my own as it's so easy. I actually prefer .220 acrylic or Plexiglas because it's strong and stable and much lighter in weight and so much harder to break than glass. Yes, you can scratch it if you try but easily replaced and you already have the exact pattern for a good fit. Just cut a new one with a saber saw before removing the plastic cover protection sheet on both sides and sand the edges smooth.
We are big fans of winter camping in the north and so easy to do with a TC on a 4X4 truck vs a towable or MH which really don't like slippery or snow covered roads a bit and upside down in a ditch is no fun at all! We have and have had many TT's, 5th wheels, and MH's (A's & C's) over the last 50+ years and have learned what works best in real up north winter RV'ing/camping/traveling!
To each their own!
