New camper! What manufacturer would you recommend

Yes, Need-A-Vacation, my bad. I used two different people's numbers. He was showing his sticker as an example. But you can't use the sticker payload unless your truck weighs the same as it did when it left the factory, (curb weight). My curb weight was 5528, but when I weighed it with me and a full tank of gas and a camper shell it was 6200. My GVWR is 7650. My payload is now the difference between those numbers which is 1450. My loaded trailer tongue weight is 1050, which is only 100lbs under my max. hitch weight, so any weight I may add to the trailer goes behind the axles. I removed the shell to give me some payload room for my wife, dog, grandkids, wdh, etc!

Northwood Manufacturing: Nash, Arctic Fox
Or

Outdoors RV Manufacturing: Creekside, Blackrock, BLackstone, WInd River and Timber Ridge

I would highly recommend a Keystone Bullet! Have seen ONLY positive postings on Bullets on this forum!! They are ultralights, well appointed and seem to have far less issues.. We bought a new leftover 14 at end of 2014 for 20K.. MSRP was 27,000. We have used it 1 season and LOVE it! Have not had a single punchlist issue! check them out!

I remember cable driven slides 25 years ago. They were a potential nightmare waiting for nightfall back then. Hard to believe they're making a comeback. It's one cost cutting measure I'll avoid. We decided on our third Jayco based largely on the Rack and Pinion slide mechanism.

4Kellys wrote:
APT, I'm confused about your payload numbers. Wouldn't available payload be the difference between 2051-1700 or 350? The sticker payload # is based on curb weight from the factory.
Once you weigh the truck fully loaded for a trip and subtract that from your GVWR that is your true payload. My sticker said 1800 but once I weighed it loaded I only had 1350 available payload. That's why I didn't buy a fifth-wheel. There's another 1-ton in my future, it'll take a little longer to acquire on a retirees income!

I am sure APT will be along to answer, but I will try to help.

First, where are you getting the "1700 or 350" from? If the 1700 is form his post with his payload sticker, the 1700lbs was only an estimate for Shughes39 about the Jayco 287 she said they were considering: the loaded tw of 900lbs, the family weight of 600lbs, and for cargo in the bed (bikes/coolers/firewood/etc) an estimated 200lbs. So the need for at least 1700lbs payload per the sticker for the truck.

Regarding actual available payload as you did, once you have loaded up your tv the way you normally will, and with all passengers in the tv, that will allow you to figure out what is left of the payload for the tt tw and wdh if shopping for a new trailer.

Maybe I am looking at it different, but to me the "true payload" of a tv would be the tv only with a full tank, without any cargo (coolers, bikes, etc), or even the wdh. This would be after any "permanent" accessories have been added: truck topper, bed liner, step bars, etc. Reason being is the family weight (to an extent), and the cargo weight (coolers, bikes, etc) can vary. Maybe someone for some reason doesn't go along (Oran extra perso joins) on a trip, maybe you pack another cooler due to the length of trip, etc. Chances are the family weight will be a little more of a constant, but I believe (right or wrong! Lol) the rest can vary more than some may realize. That is my crazy thinking!

APT, I'm confused about your payload numbers. Wouldn't available payload be the difference between 2051-1700 or 350? The sticker payload # is based on curb weight from the factory.
Once you weigh the truck fully loaded for a trip and subtract that from your GVWR that is your true payload. My sticker said 1800 but once I weighed it loaded I only had 1350 available payload. That's why I didn't buy a fifth-wheel. There's another 1-ton in my future, it'll take a little longer to acquire on a retirees income!

DO not go by what the salesman tells you when it comes to towing. They're selling a trailer. Especially at a show. Slow down and do the home work. Best place to start is right here on this forum. These guys are seasoned RV'ers and they know a bunch about what your rig can handle. You do not want to hit the road and have a white knuckle trip on your first time out. Been there are done that.

Good luck and welcome to the forum.

Shughes39 wrote:
7800 pounds is the max my husband's 2007 dodge pickup will tow. At least that is what the manual says. We don't want to reach the max pulling weight. Combined our family weighs 600 pounds but why does that matter? We won't be riding in the travel trailer while it is being pulled. We don't plan on taking long trip with the camper. Maybe 500 miles at the longest. We are planning on buying a sway bar package.

We put money to hold a Jayco 287bhsw for a week while we think about it. The show/sale price was $19900 and with tax and tow package is came out to around $22,000. I am happy with the trailer as I have always heard Jayco was a great brand of trailers. We came home to do some more research and discovered that Jayco isn't the only manufacturer that makes their trailers with plywood instead of particle board. For the price the Jayco is barebone compared to springer and wildwood. No outside kitchen, less cabinets, no hydraulics on the storage under the bed, no electric jacks.

Yes a slide is something we really want. Do these things break often? If so how much does it cost to fix after the warranty expires? I'm sure this camper we plan to keep at least 5 years. As the kids grow up we know our needs will change. This is why I am asking is it is important to buy a good brand of trailer or one that has more features we like.

Welcome and congrats on the upcoming tt purchase!!!

The reason it matters how much the family weighs, and how much cargo weight (coolers, bikes, firewood, etc) is in the bed of the truck is because ALL that weight, including the wdh (weight distribution hitch) AND the tt tw (travel trailer tongue weight) counts towards the available payload of your truck. As APT posted, look for the sticker in your drivers door jamb. That amount is what you should stay under for all those items I listed. Any accessories (truck topper/ fiberglass cap, tonneau cover, bed liner, step bars, etc) you have added to the truck since it left the assembly line will also need to be counted toward the available payload amount.

With a 1500/150 truck/suv, it is not "how much can the truck tow", but how much can it safely "haul" in regards to the available payload of the tv (tow vehicle). Many of us how found out after the fact of buying a 1500/150 that we were actually at or possible even over our tv payload. We were in that situation ourselves with our '10 Chevy 1500 CCSB, 5.3/6spd/3.42 4x4. We had ~9600lb tow rating, but towing ~7200lb tt, loaded up for a trip, we were OVER our trucks GVWR by up to about 200lbs depending on what was in the truck bed. And that 200lbs over was only with having a tool box, 4 bikes (2 adult, 2 kid), and I think a cooler. If we were taking firewood, it was in Rubbermaid tubs inside the tt. We did have a cab high truck topper on the bed, which was about 200lbs. Had we removed it, we would have been right at our trucks GVWR with those items in the truck bed. And at that time our family weight was under 500lbs.

We have been very happy with our Jayco so far. Bought it last July. Not sure where you are located, but on average a good price is about 30% off the msrp, before tax, title, license, and possibly delivery.

When we were shopping we looked for the best "value" we could find in the floorplan we liked. We tried to find one that was a good brand and had a few more features we liked, but for the best price possible. If that makes sense!! Lol We didn't want an entry model, but weren't looking for the top of the line either. Just weigh what options are important to you, and who seems to have the best value. Do look into more than just the visible differences. For example, one trailer (same floor plan as our 32 BHDS) we looked at only had 4400lb axles under it, while our 32 BHDS had 5000lb axles under it. A power tongue jack is easy to add if the tt you buy doesn't have one. But if at all possible, I will not buy a tt with power stabilizer jacks. It doesn't sound like they are as secure or stable as the scissor jacks. Plus more to go wrong (says one who has two slides!!! Lol).

Good luck!!!

I have switched to KEYSTONE products from an old traditional manufacturer for
better quality and service. One of my most important features is the size of the holding tanks especially the fresh water tank. They are using smaller tanks
now especially in the "light weight TT" and unless you like hauling water back to your campsite make sure the fresh water tank holds at least fifty gals. My 08 has a sixty gallon fresh water tank and that is just about right for two people and a dog. Tank sizes have been reduced because of new gov regulations that full tanks must be used to calculate weight. Yea some people fill their tanks at home and then hit the road, not a good idea unless you drive a semi. I take just enough water to give the dog some water. New RV's also are using nice graphics over fiberglass or plastic fronts which fade within a few years making the unit look ugly and used. They look fantastic when new. Also the interiors are getting darker, my taste is the old light oak look with lighter colors but that's a individual thing. I also like TT with a huge window in back. If the window is on the side your just looking at the camper parked next to you and you get the spy feeling. Also look for TT with the slide over the axels not in front, it puts to much weight on your hitch or tongue when they are in front. Always look under the RV to see what they used to insulate it from the road and weather and likewise the roof. Look for rust. I had a dealer tell me I could not look on the roof
because of insurance regulations, finally they gave in an allowed
me to use their ladder, the roof had damage. These are all just the things I look for in a new or used TT but should help you avoid a
costly mistake.

We just traded our old r vision trail lite in on a 2016 coachman freedom express 28 se. It is a bunk house model and it pulls real good with my 1/2 ton F-150. We also looked at coachman Catalina's that had a bunk house model both trailers were basicall the same floor plan with full slide biggest difference was the siding and aluminum cage. The freedom express is lighter than the Catalina. It is around 5800 dry and sticker says up to 7700 fully loaded. Good luck on finding the one that suits your needs and enjoy. We got the bunk house for when the grandkids go with us.