Forum Discussion
westend
Sep 12, 2016Explorer
Without comparative numbers, AKA amps drawn, it's difficult to diagnose any problem. A couple of things noted: The .8V difference between the SOC of the batteries and the charge controller should only occur with fully charged batteries. Float voltage from a solar charge controller is typically at 13.5V or higher. If you think your wiring may be insufficient, it probably is. Install larger wire. A 14.5 A charge current for the duration of a day should completely charge 225 AH of capacity, especially as an auxiliary to generator use. An inspection of the 120V converter should be high on your list.
Your 12V system is not performing as good as it could. We don't know what the total draw is but if the fridge heat strip is removed from the total, you should have plenty of 12V power. It is not atypical to see the battery voltage dip to 11.9V when using slides. They are a large draw. If you leave the TV connected while running them out, it will help.
FWIW, I operate a 120V fridge, all charging of devices, and power 120V entertainment devices using 235W of panel and 300AH of capacity. You must have some item that is drawing considerable power to lose charge so that your batteries are dead by morning. If I had to list a WAG, it is the heat strip on the fridge.
Good luck on narrowing down the issues. BTW, a hydrometer is the tool to use to measure full SOC of the batteries. After a few charge cycles, the batteries should be dipped to establish a baseline specific gravity. Future charge measuring would relate to that baseline.
Your 12V system is not performing as good as it could. We don't know what the total draw is but if the fridge heat strip is removed from the total, you should have plenty of 12V power. It is not atypical to see the battery voltage dip to 11.9V when using slides. They are a large draw. If you leave the TV connected while running them out, it will help.
FWIW, I operate a 120V fridge, all charging of devices, and power 120V entertainment devices using 235W of panel and 300AH of capacity. You must have some item that is drawing considerable power to lose charge so that your batteries are dead by morning. If I had to list a WAG, it is the heat strip on the fridge.
Good luck on narrowing down the issues. BTW, a hydrometer is the tool to use to measure full SOC of the batteries. After a few charge cycles, the batteries should be dipped to establish a baseline specific gravity. Future charge measuring would relate to that baseline.
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