New Cruiser MPG 2400BH battery draw issues...
So we recently purchased a new 2016 Cruiser MPG 2400BH trailer...... And the fun begins, first day home and the batteries are so low that the awning will barely move. Figuring that the dealership forg...
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Managed to get a bit of work done on the trailer today.. I didn't however get any numbers on Amp draws though... Bought a Mastercraft multimeter capable of measuring up to 20A DC current but guess what, it didn't work. Have to take it back and exchange it.
What I did get done.
Managed to disconnect the condensation heat strip in the fridge. Didn't put in a switch, just unplugged it. Everything seems to be working normally so far.
Soldered the connections at the battery as they were not crimped properly and with not much of a pull they came apart.
Replaced the main 30A fuse at the batteries with a proper 30A weatherproof main fuse with 6 AWG. The factory had installed the main fuse but used 8 AWG to the fuse where it changed to 12 AWG and a small automotive 30A fuse then into a main box where the wires were poorly joined together with a twist marette and back to 8 AWG running into the trailer.
I then reset my solar controller to factory presets and reprogrammed it to my current battery setup.
At this time the batteries which I thought were fully charged are still charging and the difference between the batteries and the controller is .2 to .3 higher at the controller while charging. I will measure the difference tonight after the sun is off the panels.
Just to clarify for the last post.... I am running 12 AWG PV wire from the panels to the 20A solar controller. This should be more than ample for the system I am running.
What I did get done.
Managed to disconnect the condensation heat strip in the fridge. Didn't put in a switch, just unplugged it. Everything seems to be working normally so far.
Soldered the connections at the battery as they were not crimped properly and with not much of a pull they came apart.
Replaced the main 30A fuse at the batteries with a proper 30A weatherproof main fuse with 6 AWG. The factory had installed the main fuse but used 8 AWG to the fuse where it changed to 12 AWG and a small automotive 30A fuse then into a main box where the wires were poorly joined together with a twist marette and back to 8 AWG running into the trailer.
I then reset my solar controller to factory presets and reprogrammed it to my current battery setup.
At this time the batteries which I thought were fully charged are still charging and the difference between the batteries and the controller is .2 to .3 higher at the controller while charging. I will measure the difference tonight after the sun is off the panels.
Just to clarify for the last post.... I am running 12 AWG PV wire from the panels to the 20A solar controller. This should be more than ample for the system I am running.
