New to me TT have some questions
Okay this is going to a bunch at once! We just got a new to us TT. it is a 23' Fleetwood Pioneer. I have a 2018 F150 with Max tow package. I am hoping this is going to be sufficient. I will check the ...
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My two cents on your concerns:
We use scrap wood for stabilization jacks and under tires for leveling. I trash pick 2 x 6, 8, and 10's and cut them about a foot long with 45 deg angle on each end. I also have an assortment of 4x4, 4x6, and 6x6 blocks for under the tongue jack and under the stabilizers - as you say, the less you extend the stabilizers, the sturdier they will be. I prefer plain lumber (especially cedar) to pressure treated as it is lighter, and if it splits you can use it for kindling wood.
The electric tongue jack is well worth it to me. As said, when you install it make sure you have a slow blow fuse or a circuit beaker in the hot feed. Also pay close attention to the grounding. Most of them are grounded through the bolts to the trailer frame, and those connections corrode frequently. I usually run a separate ground wire from a screw on the power head direct to the battery.
A small solar panel to keep the battery topped off can work well, and can easily be installed. More important would be a battery isolation switch to disconnect the battery to avoid all the parasitic loads. A full blown solar system for power when boon docking is much more involved and expensive.
Any of the name brand RV air conditioners will install in the same hole you have, and use the same AC power wiring. There might be a difference in the wiring for a remote thermostat, so check what you have first.
LED lamps work well, but we had trouble finding ones that gave the color of light we like - most were too bright white for us old farts ....
We use scrap wood for stabilization jacks and under tires for leveling. I trash pick 2 x 6, 8, and 10's and cut them about a foot long with 45 deg angle on each end. I also have an assortment of 4x4, 4x6, and 6x6 blocks for under the tongue jack and under the stabilizers - as you say, the less you extend the stabilizers, the sturdier they will be. I prefer plain lumber (especially cedar) to pressure treated as it is lighter, and if it splits you can use it for kindling wood.
The electric tongue jack is well worth it to me. As said, when you install it make sure you have a slow blow fuse or a circuit beaker in the hot feed. Also pay close attention to the grounding. Most of them are grounded through the bolts to the trailer frame, and those connections corrode frequently. I usually run a separate ground wire from a screw on the power head direct to the battery.
A small solar panel to keep the battery topped off can work well, and can easily be installed. More important would be a battery isolation switch to disconnect the battery to avoid all the parasitic loads. A full blown solar system for power when boon docking is much more involved and expensive.
Any of the name brand RV air conditioners will install in the same hole you have, and use the same AC power wiring. There might be a difference in the wiring for a remote thermostat, so check what you have first.
LED lamps work well, but we had trouble finding ones that gave the color of light we like - most were too bright white for us old farts ....
