Hi to all, I'm a member of a few other forums for different interests, so if I see a topic like this, I know to be prepared for a lot of questions that have been answered or thoroughly discussed. I promise to keep it simple HAHA.I recently inherited a 1998 Coachmen Catalina Lite 248TB travel trailer from my grandparents. Their health has simply declined so much in recent years that they're unable to use it. My grandfather explained most of the important details to me, as well as some of the lesser important things. I believe that what he said was a combination of "must do", "should do", or "we do it this way".As of now, I don't have any questions about the general function or anything related to repairs. The condition of the trailer is excellent, and so far everything seems to work fine. My questions are moreso related to the actual use. Here are some that I've thought of, but as I get more involved, I'm sure more thoughts will evolve.1. Sewer hookup. My grandparents did utilize a full-time connection to the sewer, but rather they preferred going to the holding tank and emptying it periodically. They said if you leave it connected to the sewer, you'll get backfeed of the sewer gasses into the trailer. Is this true? I would prefer to leave it connected.2. There was some type of chemical/powder I always remember them putting in the holding tank in their older trailer. I'm not sure what that was or if its even necessary on this one.3. The fiberglass cap/rock guard over the front window is in real bad shape. Is there a direct replacement parts supplier online? I don't want to buy one from the dealer.Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

1. Sewer Hookup. When the trailer has holding tanks, you need to let the quantity build up some before emptying it. If the tank is constantly drained of liquids (i. e. leaving the dump valve open) the solids will collect on the bottom of the tank and never get emptied. It's best to let the holding tanks, especially the black water tank, get to at least 2/3s full before emptying. Since an RV toilet has no p-trap, there is also the chance of getting sewer gasses from the sewer system back into the holding tank and maybe into the trailer.2. Many people, myself included, use some kind of chemical additive to help keep odors down in the black tank. There are some that can go in the grey water tank as well. If all is plumbed correctly, vented correctly, emptied frequently and flushed well this may not be necessary.3. Can't help you here.Good luck and happy camping!

You can connect the hose but don’t open the valves; it’s not a home sewer system. You want the black tank ¾ full before you dump it to wash out the solids. If you have to dump it, add water to the tank until its ¾ full. Then open the gray tank valve to wash out the residue from the black tank.I don’t know what chemical they used in the tank, but I suspect it was to control odor. You won’t know if you need to do that until you use the TT. We’ve never gotten any odor from our black tank so I’ve never used any chemicals. I can’t answer your third question.

I'll give it a stab..1.) You can leave the hose hooked up, but close the valves on the tanks and only dump when full. Reason being one, that sewer gas effect could go back to the trailer and two, especially on the black tank, you want as much liquid in it when you dump so it all drains out. On the gray tank, it's just nice to be able to flush that thru the hose after you dump the black tank.2.) Probably for helping to control the smell.. I use them too. Just what works for me. Don't worry about getting the stuff that says it helps break down the solids... You won't keep the stuff in there long enough for that to happen anyway.3.) No idea... :)Good luck!Mitch

There was a recent thread about a gal in FL that left her hose and tank valve open. The campground sewer system backed up and flooded the trailer with sewage. The TT was a total loss.

Other than the rock guard, all your questions have been answered pretty well.Here's a link to an online source, for the rock guard. It looks quite expensive.There have been threads on this before. Some folks have suggested taking your existing frame to a glass shop, have them fit a peice of frosted plexiglass or Lexan.Maybe, you could find one at an RV salvage or surplus.Here is one on eBay. Don't know if right size.Kinro is the name of a company who makes many RV windows. Maybe, they can help.

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majorgator
Explorer
Jul 11, 2014
Yes, the tires were one of the first things I checked. I'm afraid that they may be dry-rotted, but at first glance, they look OK. They'll get a closer inspection this weekend. The brakes didn't appear to work when I moved it, but I was more focused on getting home and not playing with the brake controller. The marker lights and brake lights didn't work either, so I'm sure new bulbs are in order.
westend
Explorer
Jul 11, 2014
Rock guard: I made my own out of vinyl coated aluminum sheet:
Tvov
Explorer II
Jul 11, 2014
majorgator wrote:

...
The trailer has been parked more/less for the last 3 or 4 years,...

Yes, check tires, and you should pull the wheels off and check / grease the bearings and check the brakes... assuming you are planning on towing the trailer? If it is just going to stay at one campground, you don't have to do anything with the tires or bearings.
2012Coleman
Explorer II
Jul 11, 2014
OP wrote:
The trailer has been parked more/less for the last 3 or 4 years
If thiat is the case, then you really need to check on the tires. Tread wear is not an indication of tire health. There should be a manufacture date stamped on them.
majorgator
Explorer
Jul 11, 2014
I'm thankful to everyone for their comments and suggestions. I wasn't fully aware of the dynamics of a TT sewer system until now. I'll check out the rock guard as well, but I'm also thinking that a piece of plexiglass (probably tinted) will be OK and have a nice look.

The trailer has been parked more/less for the last 3 or 4 years, so we have a monumental task ahead of us this weekend: cleaning, washing, checking out all functions, etc. We had a good rain storm yesterday, and there doesn't appear to be any leakage so far as I could tell.

I'm also considering removing the table and putting another cushion along the wall to make a u-shape couch. We are a family of 5 with three boys all 5 and under, so I think the table is of less use to us than just a good place to sit and relax ;-)
Tequila
Explorer
Jul 11, 2014
I was camped next to a guy in Mexico who left his sewer open. It plugged. I suggested he hook up and drive it over some bumpy roads. That worked, it loosened it up enough so some of it flowed, then we poured hot water into the tank to loosen up what was left.
handye9
Explorer II
Jul 10, 2014
Other than the rock guard, all your questions have been answered pretty well.

Here's a link to an online source, for the rock guard. It looks quite expensive.

There have been threads on this before. Some folks have suggested taking your existing frame to a glass shop, have them fit a peice of frosted plexiglass or Lexan.

Maybe, you could find one at an RV salvage or surplus.

Here is one on eBay. Don't know if right size.

Kinro is the name of a company who makes many RV windows. Maybe, they can help.
westend
Explorer
Jul 10, 2014
There was a recent thread about a gal in FL that left her hose and tank valve open. The campground sewer system backed up and flooded the trailer with sewage. The TT was a total loss.
MitchF150
Explorer III
Jul 10, 2014
I'll give it a stab..

1.) You can leave the hose hooked up, but close the valves on the tanks and only dump when full. Reason being one, that sewer gas effect could go back to the trailer and two, especially on the black tank, you want as much liquid in it when you dump so it all drains out. On the gray tank, it's just nice to be able to flush that thru the hose after you dump the black tank.

2.) Probably for helping to control the smell.. I use them too. Just what works for me. Don't worry about getting the stuff that says it helps break down the solids... You won't keep the stuff in there long enough for that to happen anyway.

3.) No idea... :)

Good luck!

Mitch
rfryer
Explorer
Jul 10, 2014
You can connect the hose but don’t open the valves; it’s not a home sewer system. You want the black tank ¾ full before you dump it to wash out the solids. If you have to dump it, add water to the tank until its ¾ full. Then open the gray tank valve to wash out the residue from the black tank.

I don’t know what chemical they used in the tank, but I suspect it was to control odor. You won’t know if you need to do that until you use the TT. We’ve never gotten any odor from our black tank so I’ve never used any chemicals. I can’t answer your third question.

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