Newbie ~ electrical problem
Hello ~ We brought home a 2008 R-vision Trailcruiser from the dealer (everything was working when we left the dealer lot). About 10 days went by, I checked the charge panel on the range hood and it ...
Forum Discussion
First, on line 2. of our Status note, it should begin "With no battery CONNECTED", not disconnected. Sorry about that.
krobbe: We're following the troubleshooting process from a flowchart from PPS Parallax Power Supply L.L.C. - Troubleshooting Guide we printed off the internet. I'd attach it for your review but can't see how to do that. It calls the two 30A fuses "polarity" fuses and the six 15A fuses "DC load" fuses. It references VC and VDC and as far as I can determine, those terms are pretty much interchangeable. The doc says first to check for blown polarity fuses. Did that, they're ok. Next we're directed to disconnect shore power, remove the polarity fuses, reconnect shore power, and "check for DC output between the blue wire and the "Neg-" negative terminal on the fuse block". When we do that, we get 13.1 as a result. The doc says the result should be between 13.2 and 14.2 VDC. We're not sure whether such a small difference between our result and the desired result is indicative of a bad converter. Regardless, after the question "Is the voltage correct?" is asked, we are directed to "See Note 2" which says "If the unit has correct DC voltage with "polarity" fuses removed, but does not when "polarity" fuses are in place the converter may be in over current mode." We measured with polarity fuses in place and the result reads zero. So, in order to exclude "over current mode" as a possibility, we then pulled each of the DC fuses and measured after pulling each. As long as the polarity fuses are in place, the results of the measurements are always zero. Plus, as sort of an aside, we pulled the polarity fuses while all DC fuses were uninstalled, and the reading was 5, not 13.1. Re-installing all the DC fuses (but not the polarity fuses) brings us back to the 13.1 reading. You say there would be no benefit in such a measurement, and we don't understand why they say it's important, but they do.
westend: No battery connected during all testing (haven't bought a new one yet - will tomorrow). The only measurement we are directed to perform by the troubleshooting doc is the blue wire-to-Neg- terminal mentioned above. Yes, all circuit breakers are untripped, and no, none of the 12v devices are working.
Mandalay Parr: Will pick up new battery tomorrow.
Thank you all for your input. If you can think of anything else for us to try before we get the new battery, we'll do it. By the way, no chance of the new battery getting damaged by hooking it up with whatever converter problem(s) we might have is there?
krobbe: We're following the troubleshooting process from a flowchart from PPS Parallax Power Supply L.L.C. - Troubleshooting Guide we printed off the internet. I'd attach it for your review but can't see how to do that. It calls the two 30A fuses "polarity" fuses and the six 15A fuses "DC load" fuses. It references VC and VDC and as far as I can determine, those terms are pretty much interchangeable. The doc says first to check for blown polarity fuses. Did that, they're ok. Next we're directed to disconnect shore power, remove the polarity fuses, reconnect shore power, and "check for DC output between the blue wire and the "Neg-" negative terminal on the fuse block". When we do that, we get 13.1 as a result. The doc says the result should be between 13.2 and 14.2 VDC. We're not sure whether such a small difference between our result and the desired result is indicative of a bad converter. Regardless, after the question "Is the voltage correct?" is asked, we are directed to "See Note 2" which says "If the unit has correct DC voltage with "polarity" fuses removed, but does not when "polarity" fuses are in place the converter may be in over current mode." We measured with polarity fuses in place and the result reads zero. So, in order to exclude "over current mode" as a possibility, we then pulled each of the DC fuses and measured after pulling each. As long as the polarity fuses are in place, the results of the measurements are always zero. Plus, as sort of an aside, we pulled the polarity fuses while all DC fuses were uninstalled, and the reading was 5, not 13.1. Re-installing all the DC fuses (but not the polarity fuses) brings us back to the 13.1 reading. You say there would be no benefit in such a measurement, and we don't understand why they say it's important, but they do.
westend: No battery connected during all testing (haven't bought a new one yet - will tomorrow). The only measurement we are directed to perform by the troubleshooting doc is the blue wire-to-Neg- terminal mentioned above. Yes, all circuit breakers are untripped, and no, none of the 12v devices are working.
Mandalay Parr: Will pick up new battery tomorrow.
Thank you all for your input. If you can think of anything else for us to try before we get the new battery, we'll do it. By the way, no chance of the new battery getting damaged by hooking it up with whatever converter problem(s) we might have is there?
