Newbie looking for lightweight

Thank you for the mpg info. That helps. I am looking at B,B+ and C also but would not be able to tow my 2007 Honda CRV unless I used a front dolly. Already checked that. Money rules the decision. I would like a lot of things, but want to do this on a budget for purchasing and traveling. So all of this info helps as it can be confusing. Thank you again!

Let's talk gas mileage. When you are not towing, on average a V6 should get you somewhere between 2 and 4 mpg better than a V8 in the same or similar vehicle. When you are towing, the V6 advantage is likely to be 1 mpg or less. So you can try to estimate how many miles you think you'll drive towing and how many miles non-towing in a year, and see the cost difference. If you tend to stay in each spot for a long time, that difference will be quite inconsequential. But if you put on a ton of miles, it could add up.

Most vehicles towing a typical-shape (fairly boxy, conventional build) TT will get about 10 to 12 mpg. Even something like an R-Pod, according to some reports I read on an R-Pod owners' forum, pull the fuel economy down to about 12 or so. But people who tow a molded-fiberglass trailer like Scamp, Casita, Parkliner (built in NC), or Li'l Snoozy (built in SC) will get between 14 and 17 mpg because they have low rooflines with rounded corners and edges all around (which reduces wind resistance, the big factor in mpg and in how hard your engine works). And those who tow a popup trailer are likely to get 17 to 19 mpg; this category includes not just the tent trailers but also hardside popups like A-frames (Aliner, Chalet, etc.), Hi-Lo, and Trailmanor. All these numbers assume that you'll be driving about 60 mph on the highways; higher speeds will suck more fuel.

As for used SUVs, to tow a molded fiberglass 'egg' trailer or a popup, I would suggest taking a look at the 2008-2013 Toyota Highlander or a 2010+ Jeep Grand Cherokee with Pentastar V6. My Highlander has towed trailers for about 140,000 miles and is still going strong. (The V6 Rav4 has the same strong engine as the Highlander, but lower tow and hitch weight capacity, so you'd have to make sure your hitch was under 350 lb.) If you are getting a stick built, boxy TT I would recommend more power; the Grand Cherokee V8 and Lexus GX V8 are two such possibilities.

I've never had a motor home, but Class C's about 10-15 years old seem to be pretty affordable and often don't have many miles on them. If you could tow your Honda behind the C and use the Honda to run around the countryside for sightseeing and such, it really might be the most affordable approach. You may only get 9 mpg with the C, but offsetting that is the good fuel economy of the Honda and (I'm guessing) a smaller initial investment.

Someone already mentioned a casita. Those "eggs" are love it or hate it. I couldn't spend more than a day or two in one, but that's me.

A good class C could pull a small towd, possibly your existing honda, if it can be towed 4 flat, and probably can if a stick shift. That is the cheapest option, as you keep your existing car, and if you buy the Class C right, you may sell it for what you paid for it in a year, if it is in good shape.

Consider a used Four Winds Majestic from Cruise America, they have a lot of miles, but are generally well maintained, and they finance.

Thank you everyone. Will try to make that RV show in Greensboro.
So-I am wavering between a Class B or 6 cyl SUV-Rather than a truck. But how much mileage am I really saving with a 6 cyl. I plan on exploring areas wherever I am so a TT seems best but hate the gas mileage on 8 cyl. I want an SUV for the dog and extra storage as I would prefer a smaller trailer. Also thinking about budget.

There is an RV show coming up Jan. 2-4 in Greensboro. You can check out a lot of campers in one trip. There will be several dealers from NC there.

RV Show

There is an entire class of lightweight trailers that hasn't been mentioned so far - fiberglass eggs. They are built like a boat, usually in two halves (top & bottom) so leaks are rare. Many are still on the road after 30 - 40 years of use. Sizes range from 13' - 24'.

While tha larger ones will require a substantial tow vehicle, the smaller trailers do quite well with a small SUV & V6 engine (some of the 13' & 15' are towed with 4 cylinder engines).

I tow a 17' Escape 17B with a RAV4 Sport (V6 & Tow Package). The trailer weights 3010 lbs packed for a long trip. I've towed it 56,000 miles so far, with the longest trip 304 days.

The limitations are most have wet baths, and the smaller ones require the dining table to be converted to the bed. Other than that, most are available with all the same equipment as the larger trailers.

Some sources include Casita, Escape, Oliver, and Scamp.

For more information, owner blogs, and other manufacturers, check my Fiberglass Trailer Page.

The Rockwood Mini Lites would be a huge advantage over the R-Pod mostly due to the shape of the R-Pod and losing both headroom and storage in the rear. The only one I've actually been in had the "wet bath" rather than a regular bathroom. Doubt you'd be happy with that long-term. Something to check out.

An advantage of the Class B or C would be not having to deal with both the vehicle and an RV. Another plus would be not having to deal with as much set up as with a TT. The downside is that you'd be limited if you are set up at Location A, but would like to do a little day trip to Location B. You would need to break everything down. Have you considered a crew cab vs an suv? Our Sam, World's Best Yellow Camping Lab, traveled many a mile in comfort with the rear seat flat.

Glad to see you're doing your homework before rather than after. Good luck.

Engine choice is only one of the factors. Nobody supported front wheel drive/awd cuv

Go to camper shows and campground to see tow vehicles. Other option is hire a transporter, get a huge 4 season rated trailer and park it.

I'm sorry that I haven't gotten back to this for awhile. Finally checked page 2.
Anyway, I don't know how long I will be traveling in it. I have also check out Class B and C. It seems like by the time I buy another vehicle and a trailer, I could also buy a Class B or C used. All options would have to be used anyway. I would not buy new due the depreciation factor.
Thanks for all of the info on V-6 engines as that helps. I am a woman, so not so well versed in all of the different engine advantages. Also would prefer a SUV over a truck because my dog would travel in the vehicle.
Thank you for all of your input. I plan on attending RV shows this winter just to get ideas and see floor plans to see what would work best.

As I am reading this, my take is that the OP is interested in something livable for a year or so, is reasonably built = not a top of the line/long term trailer and one with a bathroom with shower. Assume he wants a kitchen also. For sure, the location is a factor....what works in the north won't do so well in AZ and vice versa. A bit more information would be helpful.

Unless a new unit is preferred, it would be nice to find a small, gently used trailer maybe a couple of years old.

OP, if you can fill in some gaps for us re location, etc, there may be additional info for you. Good luck.