Newer F150 vs. old F250.
One of my good friend bought a 2013 F150. I was surprised on how much it was rated to tow compare to mine. My is rated to tow 7500 pounds and his was something like 10,000 pounds. So, I looked up for ...
Forum Discussion
Yup...technology has gotten much better. From lubrication, gaskets...to
metallurgy and more
Production processes hasn't stood still either
Then CAD/CAM...but that is where I've seen it fail. Today's designers
are very smart...but too many times rely on their canned software. Both
for design and simulation/testing/certification.
Nothing really new for these forced induction ICE's...other than direct
injection.
The 'marvel' folks espouse great enthusiasm is very similar to when the first
production turbos hit the market. Ford has done a good job from what I've
read up on, but for me, still waiting for them to start hitting the
used market and the biggie: rebuilds
Vehicles used to be considered used up at around 100K-150K and some
a bit longer.
Changed mainly due to that better material science and production science
mentioned above
My Silverado half ton 'can' haul over 3,000 lbs of firewood/wood pellets/etc
every year. About time to start checking the prices around here.
Some years has them deliver for free...so my Silverado gets a break...
6,200 GVWR and a 3,xxx RGAWR to boot.
'Can do it' vs doing it well...and know the risks. Replace the rear
axle bearings often and have lost count how many times. Know to check
as the cage deforms and many times allows a roller to come out if it
Too many here and other forums will take that and advise newbies or
anyone asking that they "can do it...I've been for years with no
issues". I'm not one of those and have a conscience for & of my advice
I've ditto'd that with my Suburban, but won't abuse my Sub often and
is why the Silverado is there...I keep my vehicles a looooooong time
AND...the Sub did a much better job of it and was able to take that
load out on the highway...where as the Silverado is kept to 25 MPH
on residential streets
Bottom line: chose what you like and then decide if you believe in
the OEM's ratings systems or not....
If not, then do whatever but know you have taken the OEMs off the
liability and warranty hook
If yes, then read up on those ratings systems work...and follow them
with actual weights for your plain math workups
metallurgy and more
Production processes hasn't stood still either
Then CAD/CAM...but that is where I've seen it fail. Today's designers
are very smart...but too many times rely on their canned software. Both
for design and simulation/testing/certification.
Nothing really new for these forced induction ICE's...other than direct
injection.
The 'marvel' folks espouse great enthusiasm is very similar to when the first
production turbos hit the market. Ford has done a good job from what I've
read up on, but for me, still waiting for them to start hitting the
used market and the biggie: rebuilds
Vehicles used to be considered used up at around 100K-150K and some
a bit longer.
Changed mainly due to that better material science and production science
mentioned above
My Silverado half ton 'can' haul over 3,000 lbs of firewood/wood pellets/etc
every year. About time to start checking the prices around here.
Some years has them deliver for free...so my Silverado gets a break...
6,200 GVWR and a 3,xxx RGAWR to boot.
'Can do it' vs doing it well...and know the risks. Replace the rear
axle bearings often and have lost count how many times. Know to check
as the cage deforms and many times allows a roller to come out if it
Too many here and other forums will take that and advise newbies or
anyone asking that they "can do it...I've been for years with no
issues". I'm not one of those and have a conscience for & of my advice
I've ditto'd that with my Suburban, but won't abuse my Sub often and
is why the Silverado is there...I keep my vehicles a looooooong time
AND...the Sub did a much better job of it and was able to take that
load out on the highway...where as the Silverado is kept to 25 MPH
on residential streets
Bottom line: chose what you like and then decide if you believe in
the OEM's ratings systems or not....
If not, then do whatever but know you have taken the OEMs off the
liability and warranty hook
If yes, then read up on those ratings systems work...and follow them
with actual weights for your plain math workups
