No power to upper control board of fridge

Old-Biscuit wrote:
You are confused.......
That 6v AC measurement on DC is a test of maximum AC Ripple
(AC voltage induced on 12V DC system by converter)
IT is not what you need to be testing.

You need 12V DC voltage to operate fridge controls (upper panel is all 12V DC)

120V AC power operates the electric heat element only. Has a 5a Fuse on lower board to protect element circuit.

The 12V DC comes from your battery/converter DC Dist Panel (FUSE)
If 3A fuse on lower board is bad....no 12V DC to operate fridge

Here is a link to service manual that includes your model. Pg. 13 Section 5.8 & 5.9----DC tests LINK

Could be blown 3A fuse
Could be bad lower board
Could be bad harness between lower/upper boards

You need 12V DC for fridge to work whether it is on 120V AC heat element of on propane

Plan 'B"........large ice chest

Old-Biscuit, thank you for your response! We are no electricians that is for sure! We are hoping that when we get to where we are going, one of the three electricians in the family will be able to point us in the right direction (but that may lead to a "too many cooks in the kitchen" scenario that will be the focus of our weekend). We are pretty positive it is not the fuse (that is the first thing we did...replace ALL fuses. We already purchased and replaced the lower board with no results. We are starting to consider the wiring harness between the lower/upper boards. We started to pull the fridge out last night and then realized it was after midnight. The little bit we did I was able to pull a few pine needles out from underneath and one looked burned/scorched.

Also, after running out quick to take a few pictures, I noticed that one of the red wires from the thermofuse was connected to J4 (which is where the +12v is supposed to be connected on the board). Something tells me this isn't right!? When we installed the new lower board, we connected the wires tit for tat (had before pictures to go by).

Already on to Plan B! Got the cooler out and cleaned....oh well! Maybe next time we will have an operational fridge. Thank you for your response!

sharker6 wrote:
The Dometic RM2652 fridge has a recall. You can go here to see if yours is included click. I don't think it's an electrical recall though.

Sharker6, we discovered the recall when troubleshooting this issue. I am not sure what a "Dometic SBH Kit" is thought. We will definitely be checking into this when we return from this weekend's trip. Maybe it is a good thing the fridge isn't working!!!

You are confused.......
That 6v AC measurement on DC is a test of maximum AC Ripple
(AC voltage induced on 12V DC system by converter)
IT is not what you need to be testing.

You need 12V DC voltage to operate fridge controls (upper panel is all 12V DC)

120V AC power operates the electric heat element only. Has a 5a Fuse on lower board to protect element circuit.

The 12V DC comes from your battery/converter DC Dist Panel (FUSE)
If 3A fuse on lower board is bad....no 12V DC to operate fridge

Here is a link to service manual that includes your model. Pg. 13 Section 5.8 & 5.9----DC tests LINK

Could be blown 3A fuse
Could be bad lower board
Could be bad harness between lower/upper boards

You need 12V DC for fridge to work whether it is on 120V AC heat element of on propane

Plan 'B"........large ice chest

The Dometic RM2652 fridge has a recall. You can go here to see if yours is included click. I don't think it's an electrical recall though.