Forum Discussion

username_taken's avatar
Dec 27, 2013

Noob with questions - need expert advice

I am just getting into the world of truck camping, and I wish I had discovered it earlier! It provides so many more options than the giant 16k lb 5th wheel toyhauler we had - as well as being much more cost effective - fuel, purchase price, insurance, tags, tires, and on and on.

I currently have a 2012 GMC 3500HD diesel dually that I will be using it for the TC. Capacities are as follows:
GVWR - 13k lbs
Payload - 5133 lbs
Trailer - 18k lbs - tongue capacity??? 1800 lbs???
5th wheel - 22,400 lbs

We are looking at a 1998 Caribou - 11.5ft (Owner is unsure of model M11G or M11K) Either way, we should have enough payload for the camper with room to spare for a trailer for boat or toys.

But the BIG QUESTION - to tow it I will have to use a hitch extender in the factory class V hitch between (guesstimate) 24" and 36". From reading here, I know that affects trailer and tongue weight limits.

Our 20' flatbed toy trailer is less than 4600 lbs fully loaded with 2 RZRs, full fuelbox, and generator, but is tongue heavy at 665 lbs measured.

I'd like to use a 2.5" to 2" extension without a WD hitch for simplicity - shortest possible length of course.

Is there any way I can do this safely without a new Torklift Superhitch and Supertruss and/or a WD hitch, or do I need to get some weight off the tongue?

29 Replies

  • It may not work for you, but that's good work by the late, great Don Curley -- well known by many here for his expertise and for being an all around good guy.
  • There are a couple of alternatives to the SuperHitch if you can fabricate:

    1. Add a second Class V receiver under your current one so you can make your own double-trussed extension with chain triangulation.

    2. Remove the stock rear bumper and use the frame rails along with your current receiver to build a squared frame extension off the back your truck.

    Because of the weight of your trailer any extension relying solely on the current receiver will twist and destroy it due to the leverage and possibly cause your trailer to injure or kill someone. Mine is usually loaded over 5000 lbs and sometimes over 7000 lbs - If you see see the SuperHitch compared to your current receiver you will understand why it has the capacity of 10,000 lbs with the extension in use.
  • The more I read and look at that hitch, the more I realize I'm gonna have to go with the Torklift setup if I want to do it safely.

    GM rates the truck as being able to bumper tow 18k lbs. If I was doing it without an extension, I would - simply because the liability would fall on GM if it failed, and insurance companies have the $$$ and HP to fight a corporate giant like GM. If I gave both the insurance co and GM an easy excuse like the extension, I'm sure I'd be the one taking all the liability.

    I'm either gonna have to factor in the cost of the hitch, etc. or look at a smaller TC with less overhang.
  • I think your weak point would be the factory GM hitch. They are not that beefy, atleast my 09 dually wasn't. I got great advice from another forum member warning me that his GM factory hitch welds were starting to fail when he luckily caught it before it got any worse. Thats what convinced me to atleast go to a Reese Titan hitch. When I removed the factory hitch I laid it beside the Titan and there was a very big difference in how much better built the Titan hitch was made compared to the factory hitch. It always amazed my how these truck companies advertise their trucks pulling these massive loads on the TV commercials, when in reality they are sticking on these inferior built hitches just to save some money. No question the truck will pull what its rated for, but not sure it will pull those heavy hauls safely with the factory mounted hitch. Just something to think about.
  • BTW - did some quick math on the eyebolt/ chain idea.

    If I can add 500# of total combined tension to the chains, and eyebolts mount 5" above where the chain mounts to the hitch, I can take 119# of load off the receiver extension at the point where the chains mount - 6.5" away from from the far end of the receiver. Add some horizontal and vertical stability to the extension in the process.

    I could probably fab my own extension from some 1/4" thick 2.5" square stock that would be exactly the length I need and not 1" more. I can build something even beefier with regard to the chain mounts that would improve leverage and lift over what is commercially available. All in, the project would cost me less than $100.

    Am I sound in my logic, or over thinking this? I know it would be easier to get 120 lbs off the tongue by not filling the fuelbox more than halfway (20 gal vs. 40 at 6 PPG), but I want to prepare for the worst case scenario, not the best.
  • That's what I'm afraid of. Spending another $1000 on the Superhitch and Supertruss combo will def. get me into hot water with the wife.

    I do have engineering and welding/ fab experience if any of you have creative solutions.

    I was thinking of using the stock bumper hitch ball mounts as an anchor point for eyebolts/ stabilizing chains that would take some of the vertical weight/ leverage off the hitch and add stability.
  • I use the 2 1/2" Reese extension and Reese Titan (09 Silverado dually) for my UTV trailer but its aluminum, lightweight, has brakes, and the tongue weight is probably less than 150 lbs. With what you are hauling I would stick with the Torklift Superhitch and their extension. 665 lb tongue weight increases dramatically with extensions as they get longer, and the Superhitch package can handle that.
  • BTW - I would really like input on options that don't include buying the superhitch and supertruss.

    After outfitting the new rig and buying tie downs (Torklift), turnbuckles, hitch extensions, generator, etc. the wife is starting to have her doubts about a TC being a good "value" option compared to the 5er.