tooldad1041 wrote:
Thank you. That just sucks then that 3-4 years ago I scrapped a perfectly good working fridge. Live and learn, I was ready to go to the RV service tomorrow to have it checked before I built a cabinet around it.
12VDC draw is minimal so spare battery with 'battery tender' connected should maintain the DC voltage
Fridge circuit board has 2 fuses....1 for 120VAC (electric circuit/heater element---typically 5A glass fuse) and 1 for 12VDC (circuit board/controls--typically a 3A auto blade fuse)
Clearances (Standard)
0"---top/bottom/sides
1"---backside (if more then baffles should be used to direct airflow up thru absorber tubes and across condenser Fins at top)