Oil changes en-route with camper on truck?
Currently in need of an diesel oil change while en-route. Some service centers can't handle the weight of the truck with camper on. They need the camper dis-mounted from the truck. Any recommendat...
Forum Discussion
In October last year, I mentioned that I had a Stahlbus brand oil drain valve for my truck, and would install it at the next oil change. It’s that time, so I thought I’d update this with how it went.
Stahlbus Oil Drain Valve Plug
Rather than draining the oil, then installing the new valve and waiting for the next oil change to actually use it, I installed it WITHOUT draining the oil first :E
All I can say is, you gotta be quick doing it that way unless you like wearing a bunch of dirty oil. I only lost about a half-pint. :C
I installed the new valve, then let it sit for a few days with a sheet of cardboard under it to make sure it wasn’t going to drip. I changed the oil today, and was very pleased with how much cleaner the job is. Oil pans that have the drain on the side can be a bit messy when you first pull the plug, especially when there’s 13+ quarts wanting to come out. I always seem to misjudge where to put the pan, and the oil stream ends up overshooting it.
This is the new drain valve installed in the pan, with the cap screwed on. The cap is a secondary seal in case the internal check valve fails.
The cap is removed, showing the o-ring seal for the cap.
The check valve is opened by inserting the hose assembly into the valve and giving it a half-turn.
The oil is draining! It drains slower through the hose, but that’s probably a good thing.
If you like draining into empty oil jugs, you can stop the flow by giving the hose a twist and pull, and the valve will close and doesn’t leak. I drain into a pan that’s big enough to hold all 13 qts, but I tested it’s stop/start abilities anyway.
You can either keep the hose with you in case you need an oil change on the road, or the valve can be removed from the pan just like a drain plug. It uses a replaceable crush washer as a seal.
:):)
Stahlbus Oil Drain Valve Plug
Rather than draining the oil, then installing the new valve and waiting for the next oil change to actually use it, I installed it WITHOUT draining the oil first :E
All I can say is, you gotta be quick doing it that way unless you like wearing a bunch of dirty oil. I only lost about a half-pint. :C
I installed the new valve, then let it sit for a few days with a sheet of cardboard under it to make sure it wasn’t going to drip. I changed the oil today, and was very pleased with how much cleaner the job is. Oil pans that have the drain on the side can be a bit messy when you first pull the plug, especially when there’s 13+ quarts wanting to come out. I always seem to misjudge where to put the pan, and the oil stream ends up overshooting it.
This is the new drain valve installed in the pan, with the cap screwed on. The cap is a secondary seal in case the internal check valve fails.
The cap is removed, showing the o-ring seal for the cap.
The check valve is opened by inserting the hose assembly into the valve and giving it a half-turn.
The oil is draining! It drains slower through the hose, but that’s probably a good thing.
If you like draining into empty oil jugs, you can stop the flow by giving the hose a twist and pull, and the valve will close and doesn’t leak. I drain into a pan that’s big enough to hold all 13 qts, but I tested it’s stop/start abilities anyway.
You can either keep the hose with you in case you need an oil change on the road, or the valve can be removed from the pan just like a drain plug. It uses a replaceable crush washer as a seal.
:):)
