One very last water tank question

Suburban SW6D.....

1) DC Voltage goes to on/off switch from a FUSED source (DC Dist Panel)
2) From switch it goes to a DC Junction box on left side of tank from the rear----wire nuts used to connect wires ---check if loose)
3) From the DC Junction Box the wiring goes to the set of t-stats --- High temp first then down connecting wire to Normal Temp
**(High temp trips if normal temp fails----manual reset via the PUSH TO RESET cover above gas valve---right side is for the propane Red Wires)
(Left side for 120VAC ---yours will only have the one on right side)


4) From the t-stats DC goes to circuit board ---backside of tank or attached to cabinet wall
5) DC then goes from circuit board to Gas Valve AND spark Electrode



Follow the DC to switch/from switch/from t-stat etc

Thank you

The diagram is on the right side of page 6 showing it connected with red wires. The picture is on page 18, unfortunately there is no picture of the actual location on the water heater. You might have to peel back some insulating foam on the side of the tank or remove an access panel to see the switch. Page 22 has a troubleshooting section that might help also.

Thank you. Can you advise on what page you see info about the circuit breaker reset on side of tank?

looking at the service manual at BryantRV (water heaters are at the bottom under miscellaneous) Link

It looks like there is a resettable circuit breaker on the side of the tank. you might see if the button is popped popped out. There is also a troubleshooting section near the bottom that you can run through with a digital volt meter if you have one. If you do not have a meter they are fairly cheap at Walmart or even Harbor Freight. We can also help you use the meter to perform any needed checks.

Suburban SW6D

Npdchief07 wrote:
It is a gas hot water heater, no electric

Can you get us the make and model? Guessing it's an Atwood here's a few things.

WATER HEATER LOCK OUT - GAS PRESENT BUT NO SPARK
High tension lead wire loose --- Secure wire connection on circuit board

Electrodes loosely attached to main burner --- Secure electrodes to main burner

Improper electrode gapping --- Re-position spark gap to 1/8? and into path of flame

Dirty electrodes --- Clean electrodes

Wires loose in electrode porcelain --- Replace electrodes

Cracked porcelain on electrode --- Replace electrodes

Defective circuit board --- Replace circuit board

Npdchief07 wrote:
It is a gas hot water heater, no electric

My propane refrigerators have all required 12 volts for the controller and ignitor.

I did borrow a 1970's vintage trailer once that had a pilot light and no electronics. Anything somewhat modern is going to require 12 volts.

BRAND/Model would be helpful

Those fuses are not famous for their labels. It's likely combined with something else. What is the issue? How about pulling the 15 or 20 amp fuses to see which one makes the light go off on the switch that turns on the water heater (if it has a lighted switch)?