Outfitter Apex electrical schematic??
Loading the truck for the Holiday weekend and found all the electrical inside the camper on the drivers side dead, so no lights, no water pump. Fuses checked and all good. Got to be a broken wire ...
Forum Discussion
....this is part of our disaster mitigation tool-kit (everyone may want to consider it inside every camper Class A, Class C, Trailer, 5th Wheel, truck camper, etc):
-a set of screw drivers to remove any broken lock from the inside of the camper (on the Outfitter lockset like ours, it is a Phillips screw driver if you ever have to remove the door lock from inside the camper)
-2 fire extinguishers (1 within reach of your cab-over bed) and 1 under the propane stove mounted to the cabinet wall
-in the case of a pop-up camper or truck camper with soft walls: a very reliable knife (like a Ka-Bar) to slice through through the vinyl softwall in seconds to escape, if there is an emergency that precludes you from getting out through the camper's rear door and your cab-over roof hatch is too small to exit through
-an emergency window breaking device in case a propane fire ignites so quickly, you can't get to the rear camper door, nor to the cab-over escape hatch, and you can't negotiate the large dinette window emergency opener
-two 700 to 1000 lumen flashlights (1 in the cabover mounted to the ceiling or, in an emergency velcro device; a second one mounted to the face of a kitchen cabinet)
-1 additional propane detector mounted near your propane lines; 1 additional CO detector mounted near the bed (in addition to the camper 12V system detectors that may not work if your 12V DC system fails (!)
And, in all your vehicles: a seatbelt cutter and emergency window smasher securely mounted to your seat, where you can get to them (ie. if your seatbelt cant be released easily and you find yourself upside down in water, or after an accident your vehicle catches fire).
....sorry...back to the program: electrical 12V issue (I would try Joerg's seemingly easy fix first, for Outfitter owners that have split (left/right) electrical circuits :D)
-a set of screw drivers to remove any broken lock from the inside of the camper (on the Outfitter lockset like ours, it is a Phillips screw driver if you ever have to remove the door lock from inside the camper)
-2 fire extinguishers (1 within reach of your cab-over bed) and 1 under the propane stove mounted to the cabinet wall
-in the case of a pop-up camper or truck camper with soft walls: a very reliable knife (like a Ka-Bar) to slice through through the vinyl softwall in seconds to escape, if there is an emergency that precludes you from getting out through the camper's rear door and your cab-over roof hatch is too small to exit through
-an emergency window breaking device in case a propane fire ignites so quickly, you can't get to the rear camper door, nor to the cab-over escape hatch, and you can't negotiate the large dinette window emergency opener
-two 700 to 1000 lumen flashlights (1 in the cabover mounted to the ceiling or, in an emergency velcro device; a second one mounted to the face of a kitchen cabinet)
-1 additional propane detector mounted near your propane lines; 1 additional CO detector mounted near the bed (in addition to the camper 12V system detectors that may not work if your 12V DC system fails (!)
And, in all your vehicles: a seatbelt cutter and emergency window smasher securely mounted to your seat, where you can get to them (ie. if your seatbelt cant be released easily and you find yourself upside down in water, or after an accident your vehicle catches fire).
....sorry...back to the program: electrical 12V issue (I would try Joerg's seemingly easy fix first, for Outfitter owners that have split (left/right) electrical circuits :D)
