Outfitter Apex electrical schematic??
Loading the truck for the Holiday weekend and found all the electrical inside the camper on the drivers side dead, so no lights, no water pump. Fuses checked and all good. Got to be a broken wire ...
Forum Discussion
Apex electrical progress report.
The 'pass-thru' from the connecting cable into the camper occurs underneath the 'step' up to the bed in the front of the camper. Within a few inches of being inside the 'step', a standard flat 4-wire 'towed trailer' cable is spliced in. Green is right turn signal. Yellow is left turn signal. Brown is the rear running lights. White goes to blue, which is the backup lights. So if you have problems with any of those rear lights, the branch point underneath the 'step' is one place to be checked.
Moving to the electric power controller box (WF-8735/8740): fuse #6 RED is "the charging wire". The 14v coming in from the truck goes to the + terminal of the camper batteries and to the red wire leading to the controller box, so when the engine is not running and you are operating exclusively from the campers batteries, this is the wire that transmits battery power into the box and to your appliances. And since my truck did not have a battery isolator, this is where the truck batteries can, over a long time, be discharged. I found 4 wires spliced to #6 RED - 2 small red and 2 larger black. I disconnected to two small reds and moved them to fuse #5 GREEN, (which wasn't in use) and the CO detector came back on. Not sure what the other small red does. Kept the two blacks, one of which is the 14v from the truck, on the RED for the time being.
As stated in my previous post, fuse #1 BROWN seemed to me to have too much connected to it - 4 large black wires, so I disconnected those and started traceing.
A) One of those wires powers the water pump, so that also got moved to #5 GREEN (not previously in use).
B) Another of those wires powers the drivers side, or counter lights, and the overhead exhaust fan. The overhead fan ONLY works if the switch near the door of the camper, which turns on the counter lights, is in the ON position. Reconnected this wire to fuse #1.
C) Another wire powers the switch that turns on the water heater. Reconnected to fuse #1.
D) The fourth wire powers the furnace fan, so I moved it to fuse #2 GRAY, which wasn't in use for anything else.
In a previous post I had mentioned that the red LED on the printed circuit board next to fuse #1 BROWN, was not coming on when the fuse was pulled. With two wires relocated (water pump and furnace fan), that LED now comes on when I pull the fuse. ??maybe some spurious feedback was occurring?? Is the purpose of the red LED light to indicate an open circuit or blown fuse??
Next I looked at fuse #4 YELLOW, which has 3 wires connected to it. Measuring the voltage across the fuse connectors, I get 3 volts????? One of these wires has a piece of red tape on it, another has green. The wire with no tape powers the radio. The wire with the red tape powers the TV plug which is on the front wall. The wire with the green tape provides 12v to the refrigerator. All 3 were reconnected to fuse #4 YELLOW.
I've been on the road, camped in this rig, and everything that I used now seems to work, so apparently the problems have been solved, even if I don't know exactly what I did. All the wires now have flags and labels on them. Thanks to all for their help.
The 'pass-thru' from the connecting cable into the camper occurs underneath the 'step' up to the bed in the front of the camper. Within a few inches of being inside the 'step', a standard flat 4-wire 'towed trailer' cable is spliced in. Green is right turn signal. Yellow is left turn signal. Brown is the rear running lights. White goes to blue, which is the backup lights. So if you have problems with any of those rear lights, the branch point underneath the 'step' is one place to be checked.
Moving to the electric power controller box (WF-8735/8740): fuse #6 RED is "the charging wire". The 14v coming in from the truck goes to the + terminal of the camper batteries and to the red wire leading to the controller box, so when the engine is not running and you are operating exclusively from the campers batteries, this is the wire that transmits battery power into the box and to your appliances. And since my truck did not have a battery isolator, this is where the truck batteries can, over a long time, be discharged. I found 4 wires spliced to #6 RED - 2 small red and 2 larger black. I disconnected to two small reds and moved them to fuse #5 GREEN, (which wasn't in use) and the CO detector came back on. Not sure what the other small red does. Kept the two blacks, one of which is the 14v from the truck, on the RED for the time being.
As stated in my previous post, fuse #1 BROWN seemed to me to have too much connected to it - 4 large black wires, so I disconnected those and started traceing.
A) One of those wires powers the water pump, so that also got moved to #5 GREEN (not previously in use).
B) Another of those wires powers the drivers side, or counter lights, and the overhead exhaust fan. The overhead fan ONLY works if the switch near the door of the camper, which turns on the counter lights, is in the ON position. Reconnected this wire to fuse #1.
C) Another wire powers the switch that turns on the water heater. Reconnected to fuse #1.
D) The fourth wire powers the furnace fan, so I moved it to fuse #2 GRAY, which wasn't in use for anything else.
In a previous post I had mentioned that the red LED on the printed circuit board next to fuse #1 BROWN, was not coming on when the fuse was pulled. With two wires relocated (water pump and furnace fan), that LED now comes on when I pull the fuse. ??maybe some spurious feedback was occurring?? Is the purpose of the red LED light to indicate an open circuit or blown fuse??
Next I looked at fuse #4 YELLOW, which has 3 wires connected to it. Measuring the voltage across the fuse connectors, I get 3 volts????? One of these wires has a piece of red tape on it, another has green. The wire with no tape powers the radio. The wire with the red tape powers the TV plug which is on the front wall. The wire with the green tape provides 12v to the refrigerator. All 3 were reconnected to fuse #4 YELLOW.
I've been on the road, camped in this rig, and everything that I used now seems to work, so apparently the problems have been solved, even if I don't know exactly what I did. All the wires now have flags and labels on them. Thanks to all for their help.
