Mis conceptions and out of context info here on tires...as usual...
Stay away from the Load Range letter designations...they are going away
because of the misconceptions
Better to use the 'new' numeric designations and know that folks will
continue to us the letter designations
ON that, suggest to change from 'E' tires, to '10 ply rated' tires. That
is the correct translation for what an 'E' rated tire is...a 10 ply rated
tire
'LT' tires are installed by the OEMs (stock tire for 'that' vehicle)
for serious off road optioned vehicles and on the 'fake' half ton
vehicles
Fake half ton, because they have +8K GVWR ratings
'LT' class tires do come with speed ratings. I only purchase HD 'LT'
class for my Suburban and they have a speed rating of 'R', or 107 MPH
There are 'LT' class tires with a max sidewall PSI rating of 35 PSI
as there are 'P' class tires with +50 PSI ratings
Dealers, tire shops, mechanics, etc 'generally' will only sell what
they have in stock...or...what their supplier has in stock...or what
their supplier is willing to get...
So they generally will say theirs is the best or only. Some shops
will tell the whole story and even send you to another dealer who
does carry whatever it is they don't...but...this is a very rare dealer
Generally, I don't try to change a 'half ton' owners mind from 'P'
over to the next higher class 'LT'. As they purchased a 'half ton'
with 'ride quality' and 'MPG' very high on their have to have list
Few if any of these folks understand and believe even feel that 'push'
from the trailer...even a PUP...when maneuvering at speed. So generally
don't bother to try and explain why a higher class 'LT' manages that
better than any same sized/OEM/model/etc 'P' class would on the same
setup
Recommend to the OP...stick with the OEM tires for your TV...unless
you wish to upgrade...but that is re-engineering. So read up and
educate yourself in order to make the correct decision for 'yourself'
instead of following consensus voting/recommendations
