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maxum1989's avatar
maxum1989
Explorer II
Mar 09, 2017

Portable solar question

After researching for what seems like forever I have decided that I should try portable solar to see if solar is something I really need before I mount panels, wiring, controllers, etc in my two camping rigs. I figure I can try out the portable panel with both my rigs and then figure out if a roof mounted system on either or both is needed after that.
So, I think I have narrowed the portable panel search to this one:

https://www.amazon.com/ACOPOWER-Foldable-Controller-Battery-Charging/dp/B01MU4PGLQ

I debated long about a suitcase setup like above and a lighter folding setup using flexible panels. I was close on the flexible but it seems some say they don't perform and last as long as glass panels. Who knows, maybe it is still in play if I get some positive feedback on it.

This was the flexible kit I was considering:

https://www.amazon.com/ACOPOWER-Sunpower-Monocrystalline-Foldable-Controller/dp/B01M8LCDN2/ref=pd_day0_86_7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TVT7ZSYKEYS7SEB2N6Y1

Yes, the above glass panel suitcase is one of the cheaper versions and doesn't come from one of the main name brands out there, but it has the Anderson connectors that I like and it doesn't break the bank. Another thing I would add would be one of these extension wires:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HDKFQS6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2X8N6V4HT8DJJ

Lets just say for argument sake that I would get 5 amps of charging from this panel is really good sun using it the way it came. Is someone able to tell me what that would drop to if I added the extension cable to the panel moving it further away from the batteries? I believe the extension wire is 10 gauge. Getting specifics of that is tough. Most people say its 10 or 8.

Next, with these portable panels the charge controller is mounted on the panels instead of being close to the batteries as preferred. Can someone tell me what the difference in amps of charging would happen if I re-wired this setup so the controller was close to the batteries?
Is it worth it enough to re-wire this thing?
  • Continue to work on my install in the cargo trailer.

    Nearly completed (PD converter/35 amp charger, 1000 watt xantrex psw inverter, xantrex 15 amp auto-transfer switch, Grape solar 40 amp pwm solar charger, 150 watt solar panels, dual 6v batts). Need to tidy up wiring and install the counter top.


    30 amp plug in (reinforced).


    exterior power out.


    USB and 12v


    Charging via shore power
  • Tested out my solar charger with new batteries. Everything is working as intended.



    Panels - 3 X 50 watts


    Charger with Bluetooth (love this thing) - pulling over 5 amps.

  • As far as voltage drop- I look at it even if at 50%, if its in the sun and sending charge mute point....

    I replaced our Renogys 100w suitcase 15' of 1.5mm (15ga?) with 20' 14ga (2.08mm) extension cord I cut from a 50' cord. Marginally better than using the included tray cable. I had cut into 20 & 30 foot lengths thinking Id use shortest as possible where I could. The 20' section is attached to panel. Controller is in camper. So have 20' of reach. But plugging in additional 30' section of cord between, 50'total plus 6' pigtail from controller, I only measured about 0.2-0.4 volt drop? almost always see 4.7 to 5+ amps at controller.

    Rewiring portable I think worth the effort. Putting the controller at the battery side allows the higher voltage of panel output to push thru extended length of extension, offsetting/helping with any voltage drop. Controller out of elements and its output distance to batteries minimized.
  • Thanks for the responses. 100 foot extension! I guess I don't have to worry about a 30 footer then.

    And yes, I have considered the issues of setting up a portable system and probable concerns with theft but this setup would primarily be a test run to see if solar is really a benefit to my style of camping. If this panel meets or comes close to my needs a permanent system would almost certainly follow.

    Then this portable system could just float between my camper and fifth wheel depending where the extra wattage is needed.
  • I use a 100w Renogy suitcase set-up. I needed an extension cord, since here in the northeast we deal with a LOT of shade. It was recommended to me to use low-voltage outdoor lighting wire. I bought a 100' roll from Home Depot, with the thought of cutting off what I needed. I used 50a powerpoles on the ends - figured I'd try the entire 100' length for openers. Since I usually only output around 3a to the batteries from the charge controller, I wasn't too worried. I was unable to see any loss by using the entire 100' roll of cable - so that's what I still have! Meets my needs just fine. I am sure someone much better versed can find fault in my system, but since it works, measured by the ability to keep my 2 12v deep cycles full, I'm happy, and can move the panels as needed over the course of a day to catch plenty of photons! ST
  • I bought a 70W Solar Cynergy panel and a Morningstar SG-4 controller from solarblvd, and I kept it portable. I wired the two using a short extension cord I cut in half, then plugged the two together, or added an extension cord in between as needed, at the campsite. The other end of the controller I wired to a 7 pin Bargman, and I can plug the trailer pigtail into it... presto, battery gets charged. I kept the box that the panel was shipped in (foam insert and all) and I use that box to store the panel when not in use. It traveled behind my driver's seat.

    You could put together a similar setup for about $130 or so:
    100 watt panel
    6A controller
  • Lwiddis wrote:
    "I figure I can try out the portable panel with both my rigs and then figure out if a roof mounted system on either or both is needed after that."

    Don't need to setup or guard or take down a solar installation on an RV roof like a portable unit...which is almost as bad as using a portable generator.


    I agree to some extent. I will eventually make some portion of mine permanent. I want to be able to park in the shade and put the panels in the sun...provides more options in my mind. If you have quick disconnects and are setting up camp anyway, I don't see it as that much more work. Thieves are another issue entirely. To this point, we have had no issues concerning theft of anything.
  • "I figure I can try out the portable panel with both my rigs and then figure out if a roof mounted system on either or both is needed after that."

    Don't need to setup or guard or take down a solar installation on an RV roof like a portable unit...which is almost as bad as using a portable generator.
  • I am going through the same process as you. I ended up purchasing a grape solar kit from home depot for $209 (3 x 50 watt panels, controller, wiring). I plan to make my own brackets out of aluminum. It will end up being heavier than the one you are looking at due to 3 panels and different construction. I will mount the controller close to the batteries. Add quick disconnects and that's how I will start. I will eventually add panels to the system and upgrade the controller.


    Grape System
  • I have a 120W suitcase panel like the one you are looking at. I have LED lights and a 12V television. No inverter. I also do most my camping in the desert so sun availability is usually very good. It works very well to replace any charge I may have used overnight (usually minimal) and keeps the batteries at full charge during the daytime even using a stereo with an amplifier or the television. Obviously, I have the smaller draws like the refrigerator, phone charging and the like but I spent most my life tent camping so use of electricity almost seems like an extravagance. The location of the controller and length of the cable will have negligible affect (IMO). Availability of sunlight would be a greater concern in the northwest.