Forum Discussion

Hornnumb2's avatar
Hornnumb2
Explorer
Sep 17, 2015

Post sewer hose mod help

Got my post in and there just is no place back by the dump valve to put them. So my other option is in front of the tires. Its only 25ft trailer so it not a long ways but is it going to look OK? Should I notch the trim panel to get it up flat on the frame. Its probably 2 1/2 3 in notch. Thanks Michael

  • Anmacc2 wrote:
    I'm confused.... Why not just store it in the 4x4 bumper? :h

    Because the inside of the bumper will quickly rust out and the sliding of the hose in and out will put pinhole size holes in it which tend to make the hose act like a sprinkler when used. :E
    Barney
  • Anmacc2 wrote:
    I'm confused.... Why not just store it in the 4x4 bumper? :h


    I asked this very question a few months ago.

    Seems a lot of people do not like the bumper storage because the bumper will rust out.

    Personally I use the bumper for the slinky but I did add the plastic tube also it works great for fishing rods.
  • I'm confused.... Why not just store it in the 4x4 bumper? :h
  • I mounted mine on the top of the bumper. Mounting it on the bottom looks like a disaster waiting to happen when you pull out of a gas station with a significant dip in the pavement.

    I also used what they call an end post as it has 3 rectangular holes punched in it for the fence boards. They provide enough ventilation to help things dry out inside the post. I mounted on top of the bumper with 1" spacers and the slots facing down. I used large air conditioner duct zip ties to hold it in place.

    Holds 2 pieces of plastic gutter and a 20' hose with all the connections attached. I suppose it could hold more hose if needed.
  • I wouldn't notch the trim. But that's me. Odds of me goofing up are high. Maybe your more handy than me?

    I was really surprised what a 8 inch scrape on my lower trim added up to. (Thanks to some ones kid cutting through campsite with a bicycle).

    The lower trim from my manufacture, they would only sell 12 foot piece and unpainted. The length (12 foot) is to big for UPS so I would of had to use regular freight truck. So high shipping rates plus $75.00 manufacture "crating fee" to ship it in. So a little tiny scratch became quickly $700.00 when painted. I'm still wondering how a little metal piece gets to cost so much and I'm obviously still looking for perfect decal to cover scratch.

    How high does your RV sit?

    When I was in the process of looking for the "perfect" place to mount mine I noticed my driveway striker or those metal triangle things at rear haven't dragged bottom yet or made contact with anything. I put tube inside of them and two 1/8 inch bolts just as temp mounting just to see how tube would work out. Only one season so far , but quickly becoming permanent mounting. I painted it black and looks like RV was designed with it. Not a show piece but very functional.
  • We used a 6 inch PVC pipe for ours an placed it in front of the wheels even though the sewer connection is behind the wheels, painted it black and it looks great. The brackets we use to connect to the frame drop it about an inch and that leaves plenty of space to unscrew the end.
  • I have used 6" diameter black corrugated drain pipe. My sewer hose with the end fittings still connected will fit inside, and it can bend around obstructions. I can also store a couple of 5' long gutter sections for support while the sewer hose is deployed.
  • Like said earlier, Do Not Notch the trailer, I cut mine short also. I have about four inches from the side skirt and it pulls out just fine!
  • Just my opinion but I would not notch the trailer panel. Will it fit on top of the bumper? Or possibly make a spacer to lower the post so you don't have to notch the panel? I cut the post so it was not as long as the trailer width but mine fit nicely against the frame and has good access. Hopefully someone who has already mounted a post on a similar trailer will chime in.