Hi everyone, I have a 22M Minnie Winnie that I absolutely love. Its perfect for us and what we do. The only thing that I hate, as many class c's have is the sewer hose. I need to take it apart to fit it into the bumper. Mainly because the bumper has two bolts that go into it. It will allow the hose to pass by it but not any end piece connectors. So I have to take it apart. Not a big deal, but I have some physical limitations, so any time I can save not bending over is a big deal. What are some options to move this around? Are there any other ways to switch this around to keep the hose connected 24/7? Id love to come up with something that keeps the hose connected like the bigger RVs. Any help is greatly appreciated.Thanks

First, sewer hose carriers, AKA rear bumpers are a hprrible idea. The metal rusts and scraps the hose raw. Second they rust out and look UGLY. I would suggest you either mount one of the plastic type you can buy, make one out of a puece of 4 inch PVC, or simply coil it up in a plastic tote.

Unless we are on a permanent hook-up, which is only once a year, I a fitting only on one end of our sewer hose.The square rear bumper on our Itasca is aluminum, never any rust.

For some years Coachmen rigged up a system that works well to keep the sewer hose attached--I have one of them. Whether it works for your unit depends on the exact layout etc.The drain valve and connections are in an enclosed bay, and on the "floor" of this compartment directly underneath (well, directly underneath once an elbow is hooked on to the outlet) there's an assembly of standard sewer plumbing fittings: a rotating toilet flange, an elbow (and I guess a short length of pipe between the flange and the elbow to hook them up), a length of pipe sufficient for the hose length, and a screw-in cap. The cap is attached to the skirting of the motorhome via a string or cable so that, when screwed on, the whole works doesn't swing around too much when driving. Some bayonet fittings are too big to fit in the pipe if they have "ears" for finger grips that stick out much, but there are others...or one can cut off the projections.I can see about taking a picture and posting it somewhat later today; I'm not sure the description is quite perfect. If you have the clearance underneath and a place to mount it, this is a handy and effective solution, and should be not too hard to put together as a DIY project.

I use a 5 foot Dominator hose. With my class c there is no problem getting close to sewer pipes and the Dominator collapses to about 2 feet so it is easy to store.Dominator Sewer Hose

sewer hose ideas | Good Sam Community

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Apr 18, 2018
ron.dittmer wrote:

If I misunderstood you, the next best thing is to add a storage compartment on top of the rear bumper. As others have mentioned, you can make on easily out of PVC sewage pipe, or buy one pre-made like THIS EXAMPLE from Walmart on-line.

I made one of those myself at about 1/4 the price using standard plumbing stuff.
I used 4 of those straps that having a tightening up lever to hold it onto the rear bumper of my TT.
bumpy
ron_dittmer
Explorer II
Apr 18, 2018
Awesomeman,

It seems to me that the head of the bolts that mount your sewer hose bumper are the problem. Remove those bolts and replace them with carriage bolts. Your problem should be resolved with the heads of the bolts gone.

Here is a carriage bolt.

If I misunderstood you, the next best thing is to add a storage compartment on top of the rear bumper. As others have mentioned, you can make on easily out of PVC sewage pipe, or buy one pre-made like THIS EXAMPLE from Walmart on-line.
Bumpyroad
Explorer
Apr 16, 2018
donn0128 wrote:
First, sewer hose carriers, AKA rear bumpers are a hprrible idea. The metal rusts and scraps the hose raw. Second they rust out and look UGLY. I would suggest you either mount one of the plastic type you can buy, make one out of a puece of 4 inch PVC, or simply coil it up in a plastic tote.

I slid a plastic rain gutter into my bumper and all of those issues were resolved. and I used pres-to-fit connectors to make them easily removable.
bumpy
evanrem
Explorer II
Apr 16, 2018
time2roll wrote:
+1 for the 5" vinyl fence post strapped under the frame.
Lots of trailers are doing this and should work on a C.

This is what i did and it works well.
path1
Explorer
Apr 16, 2018
Be sure to measure your fittings first to make sure they will fit inside pvc tube. My local stores, Home depot tube was little bit smaller than Lowes had in stock. Lots of ideas here. https://www.google.com/search?q=rv+pvc+sewer+hose+holder&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj0oNzQrb_aAhXnilQKHY_iDuAQ_AUICygC&biw=1366&bih=651
time2roll
Nomad
Apr 16, 2018
+1 for the 5" vinyl fence post strapped under the frame.
Lots of trailers are doing this and should work on a C.
pnichols
Explorer II
Apr 16, 2018
:h

What's going on with these Class C coach manufacturers, anyway? There sure seems to be some marginal designs out there.

Our 24 foot Winnebago Itasca Class C has an enclosed lockable outside storage compartment devoted entirely to electrical and sewer. The sewer side of the compartment can hold a 15 foot sewer hose, plus a five foot extension for it, and still has room for spare sewage fittings/parts.
Mickeyfan0805
Explorer
Apr 16, 2018
I use an 8' length of vinyl fencepost with two post caps (I simply use a bolt through to hold it in place). I put a vinyl gutter rail inside that slides in and out of the post effortlessly - which creates a 'tray' for the hose. I strapped the whole thing to my TT and you don't even notice it. All I do is remove the cap from the post and slide out the tray (I even put in a small divider on the front of the tray to hold the sewer connector). Easy, protects the hose, and looks as good as new after 5+ years.
Olddud
Explorer
Apr 16, 2018
azrving wrote:
.

I'd say "hands off" that ladder. Good way to keep peeping toms off the roof.
azrving
Explorer
Apr 16, 2018
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