Forum Discussion

Alpinliteford07's avatar
Jul 01, 2016

power inverter install

Hi all, I have a 16' Alpenlite camper. (Specs in sig) Well my refrigerator seems to have taken a dump on me and I decided to go with a fridge/freezer combo that's for a college dorm. To power the fridge as I drive I was thinking of wiring in a 2000WATT inverter to power the fridge. My truck charges the battery in the camper as I drive, but im not sure how many AMPS get to the battery. Also for people who have ideas or who have done this before, where is a good area to mount the inverter? and where's a good area to plug it in? Im guessing im gonna have to pull the fuse for the 32amp battery charger as im using this right?

28 Replies

  • I'm doing this, just not in my TC.

    Now, I see some comments saying he shouldn't do this. I get it. But worth noting, it is becoming a trend in a lot of new Toyhaulers and fifth wheels to use a full size 25cu ft side-by-side house fridge.

    Seems counter intuitive to use a 110v fridge in a Toyhauler one would presumably boondock with from time to time. But remember - they don't run constantly. The on/off cycle isn't that bad, and they're well insulated to meet all the newest energy savings guidelines.

    I personally have an older, used 18 cubic foot fridge in my Shotwagon (Wells Cargo trailer). I use it for ice, chilled booze, but also to keep BBQ-ables cold until needed. I have 3 large batteries in just the trailer and can go for days via the Xantrex inverter. The inverter control panel says it draws 16amps@12v when running. Near zero when not - there is a frost free timer that does run 24x7, draws about 1amp@12v.

    If the solar is going - net positive, I can get 40amps charge from my 600watts of solar.

    We all know an RV fridge is expensive, but think about this - the $1,000 to $1,200 spent on an RV Fridge could by a nice solar set up, inverter, extra battery or two, and still pay for a small 110v fridge. Now he's got solar, and runs his fridge for free..... Like me.

    I say try it, post your results.

    Here's what I did (old pic, hadn't mounted the solar controller yet)





    And before anyone hits me up on it - yes, that last 12v + lead cannot touch the aluminum case - there is a wood block crammed in there preventing any movement. The picture makes it look like it could, you'll just have to trust me.
  • Charging from the truck tends to be anemic due to small wiring, so you might not get enough juice to keep on top of that fridge.
    I just had a Norcold 7cuft DC compressor fridge intalled but haven't really tested it yet.
  • Alpinliteford07 wrote:
    Plus the thought of needing to wait 24hr for an absorption fridge to cool off sound awful to me.

    You do know there are 12v compressor refrigerators out there. Not sure about the pricing but they're probably more expensive than the typical "dorm fridge". BUT they draw maybe half the current of that dorm fridge. I have a Dometic 2.4cuft unit in my camper and couldn't be happier. Nova Kool even makes a conversion kit to convert anything from a well insulated cooler to an older absorption fridge into a DC compressor fridge. Best thing, IMO, about a compressor fridge vs the absorption fridge is you don't have to worry about parking on the level.
  • the camper is mostly used for hunting/fishing trips and some road trips to see far away family and friends. When Im not near shore power I have a generator I can plug in as im stopped. If im in a place that doesn't want a generator plugged in and I cant plug into shore power then I can just keep the fridge shut. It's mostly to keep beer, yogurt and veggies cold, i dont really pack ice cream or milk. this option to me is cheaper because my fridge in the RV now is in need of replacement. and retrofitting a dorm unit with a power inverter is cheaper.
    Even when I spend a day out hiking i'm not to worried about the fridge getting hot if it's not on. I can always toss the veggies on ice if needed. Plus the thought of needing to wait 24hr for an absorption fridge to cool off sound awful to me.
  • What are you going to do when you are not driving? Do you want to be restricted to campgrounds with electrical hookups? Are you planning on stopping along the way for sight seeing, eating in a restaurant or any other activity?

    I think the dorm refridge idea needs to be rethought. You have a couple of better choices. First you could replace the refridge with a new unit. Or you could replace the worn out components.

    If you want to go with an electric unit, then I recommend getting a suitable 12v system which will use much, much less power than a dorm 120v unit. If you go that route, you should also consider solar power and a decent battery bank.
  • http://i.sears.com/s/d/pdf/mp-tc/10035576/prod_1500675112

    According to this spec sheet 115V/1AMP
    So if my math is correct that'd be just around a 10AMP draw 12VDC? My truck is a diesel Dual Batteries 180AMP Alternator and im planning on putting the largest deep cycle I can find into the camper.