Problem with Atwood water heater

Old-Biscuit wrote:

ScottG wrote:
Once a TPO spews hot water because of being over temp, it's shot because there's wax in it that melts. You have to replace it after fixing the root problem.

Where do you get this idea of 'wax' melting? It's not a fire sprinkler.

A T&P valve operates on 2 principles

1) High pressure (150#) overcomes spring pressure opening valve disc off seat and discharges water until pressure drops (125#). Drop in pressure is due to pressure being relieved thru T&P and the influx of cold water

2) High temperature (210*F). The probe is a thermostatic element that expands and lifts the valve disc off the seat relieving the overheated water which allows the influx of cold water. When the temperature cools below 210*F the thermostatic element will contract allowing the spring to close the valve disc against the seat.
And the T&P is ready to function again and again and again on high temp/high pressure situations.

You can (and should yearly) test the valve function by manually opening valve via lever and allow it to snap shut.

There is no wax that melts.

You are wrong on #2. There is wax in the section for temperature control (That's what expands) and it can and does fail completely. It is not designed to be triggered repeatedly. Link


Can you not discuss differing opinions without employing rudeness? Can you not offer another opinion and conduct yourself as a gentleman?

ScottG wrote:
Once a TPO spews hot water because of being over temp, it's shot because there's wax in it that melts. You have to replace it after fixing the root problem.

Where do you get this idea of 'wax' melting? It's not a fire sprinkler.

A T&P valve operates on 2 principles

1) High pressure (150#) overcomes spring pressure opening valve disc off seat and discharges water until pressure drops (125#). Drop in pressure is due to pressure being relieved thru T&P and the influx of cold water

2) High temperature (210*F). The probe is a thermostatic element that expands and lifts the valve disc off the seat relieving the overheated water which allows the influx of cold water. When the temperature cools below 210*F the thermostatic element will contract allowing the spring to close the valve disc against the seat.
And the T&P is ready to function again and again and again on high temp/high pressure situations.

You can (and should yearly) test the valve function by manually opening valve via lever and allow it to snap shut.

There is no wax that melts.

Once a TPO spews hot water because of being over temp, it's shot because there's wax in it that melts. You have to replace it after fixing the root problem.

Take it to Camping World.

New T-stats not properly installed.......they need to be tight against a clean surface on WH tank wall. Normal temp t-stat opens at 140*F. ECO t-stat opens at 180*F

When you say PRV 'spews' water.is it actually blowing water OR weeping water?
Weeping water can be due to loss of 'air pocket' in top of WH.
Turn off water, open a faucet, open the PRV via lever until water stops flowing out then let PRV snap close, close faucet, turn on water.

Electric doesn't work........tripped AC circuit breaker OR burnt up electric element.

We are going to need the make and model number of the water heater before anyone here can try and help you. There are several different models