Question to all those that have done major camper rebuilds

67avion wrote:
I think it was page 198 on the Avion thread. Scroll down.

That's the A-frame support through the roof, was that what you were referring to?

Hey, here's a side question for those that have made wheeled platforms with casters, what's a good model that will stay put attached to a 4x4 post and support a camper?

I've got a slip in a barn that's not a whole lot bigger than the camper itself, so being able to shift side to side for ease of working will be helpful, but not mandatory.

I can't do any work outside, I'm not allowed by park rules to do major rebuilds out in the park, but I can do it with it stowed in the barn, which will allow me to do the restoration on this 40 year old camper.

X2

I've never pulled the floor completely out of one so I'm not an expert, but many of the older campers rested on jacks that were fastened under the wings of the tub. Electric corner jacks were a luxury. 2x supports under the wings in addition to the corner jacks will support it while you remove the floor.

You said that you were concerned that the sides may spread once the floor is removed. I used 2 Erwin 50" hand clamps a couple of weeks ago to pull the tub walls together while removing the cross braces to have them re-welded. Since your jacks are on the corners and you aren't working with a rot condition, the end walls should hold it together.

You mentioned beefing up the floor. In addition to increasing the truss thickness a little and using only plywood(no particle board), something I really like for additional strength at very little cost or weight, put in structural foam board between your truss members and bond both sides with polyurethane adhesive. It is very strong. My previous TC was a Palomino and the camper was made that way with only 1/8" skin. Test it out on some scrap plywood and you'll be a believer if you aren't already.

I think your biggest problem will be trying to recover with all the aches and pains after you crawl around for several day under your camper. It was for me.

My best advice: take a Bayer Back & Body before you start every morning and one after you finish.

Just my experience.

Good Luck, we'll be waiting for the pictures.

I think it was page 198 on the Avion thread. Scroll down.

...here's a crazy idea: ferget the aluminum exterior, and clad a new build with adhesived TPO (just tarp the "old girl" outside as you strip out the good stuff, while you build in the barn near-by)....eventually, as time/money allows, aluminize the exterior (spray spar varnish on all wood surfaces and end-cuts before TPOing)...this is pretty out of the box, but I've always had ths idea kicking around.

Just be aware that the post 2011 TPO product (the patent ran out in ~~2011) are extremely diverse (in quality); so investigate the myriad brands carefully.

silversand wrote:
Matt: you may want to consider building a giant C-clamp (to lock n the vertical tub walls before the floor is removed), with foot wall (under the camper's wings)...

...however, I really like that idea of a steel box tube frame under your existing floor (sub-frame)...the altitude addition doesn't seem bad (weight?). Just add a steel cage to capture your rear and low hung tank (or, remove that tank before you start in anticipation of a newer slim tank). Once the steel sub-frame is in place, you can lose an inch to the interior, by building UP a slim basement, or a step-up floor to accommodate the new tank & heating blanket (?)

Standing up, I barely clear the lights on the ceiling with my shoes off as she currently stands. Making it any shorter and I won't be able to use her comfortably.

The thought about notching some 2x12s to fit around the tub before prying the floor off does sound like a good idea though.

The tank needs to be replaced, it's brittle and is already cracked around where the drain line fits in. I believe it's made out of polypropelyne, like the fresh tank, but has been exposed to the elements outside the camper for 40 years now.

The current tank is only held to the rig by four J brackets that are screwed into the underside of the floor.

I want to completely redo the bathroom as well, with a properly placed toilet flange instead of the bull******that was originally in there.

The shower pan is cracked, and needs replacing, I'm thinking about having a stainless steel tub made if I can get it for a decent price, otherwise, I will likely kit bash a common product to make a new floor pan out of, or custom make a new fiberglass one myself.

In order to do this, I need to rebuild the floor under the shower, to relocate the plumbing for it. Again, this is one of those times where I'd love to simply start from scratch, but I'm limited on space to work, so I'm basically having to do a gut/rebuild to fix the flaws in the design of this 40 year old girl.

Matt: you may want to consider building a giant C-clamp (to lock n the vertical tub walls before the floor is removed), with foot wall (under the camper's wings)...

...however, I really like that idea of a steel box tube frame under your existing floor (sub-frame)...the altitude addition doesn't seem bad (weight?). Just add a steel cage to capture your rear and low hung tank (or, remove that tank before you start in anticipation of a newer slim tank). Once the steel sub-frame is in place, you can lose an inch to the interior, by building UP a slim basement, or a step-up floor to accommodate the new tank & heating blanket (?) There are RV holdng tanks as slim as 5 inches H (22 gallons) available.

MikeJinCO wrote:
Being a mechanical engineer with a little structural experience, when one of the main rail beams(two 2x2's with some 1/8"/3mm plywood on each side) broke on mine I just did the calcs and ended up building a subframe with two 1-1/2" sq 16 ga steel tubes(side by side not top and bottom) under each side all welded up. I used some cross pieces and had to build around the drain pipe. When complete and painted with POR-15, I filled the large holes with sheet foam, then put a rubber pad on top. It is light enough for two small people to easily pick up to put in the truck and strong enough to support a very heavy camper with a long overhang.

If rebuilding I would use a TJI/BCI floor/roof joist which comes in 7-1/2", 9.5", 11-7/8" and 14" depths. Properties are strong, straight,won't warp and not much more expensive than structural lumber. Almost any real lumber yard has them, but not HD or Lowes.

I'd be happy to help.

Mike, not certain a Chipboard based wood I-beam would do me much good given that this is a 40 year old camper. They didn't have basements back when this model was built (Some of their later 70s models, early 80s did, but they were an entirely different design from the early 70s late 60's units).

My current floor is maybe 3" thick, trussing it from the outside is not feasible, as the holding tank is in the way.

What I'd like to do is use 2x3s or 2x4s for the new floor with plywood on both sides (if I go wood), with an new subfloor area in the rear built to house the newer holding tank and plumbing so that it's no longer hanging out in the air (Would allow for the addition of a heating pad for the tank so that I could keep it from freezing up during winter camping).

67avion wrote:
Well, that's a bit different alright. Take a look at the work being done by D1trout on the Avion rebuild string. He dropped the floor, but first he put in supports.You can see the whole explanation, with photos, on page 198. I understand your situation is different...but its worth taking a look.

Do you happen to have the page numbers for his part on that thread? It's gotten so huge, it's hard to find a specific person's work anymore.

Being a mechanical engineer with a little structural experience, when one of the main rail beams(two 2x2's with some 1/8"/3mm plywood on each side) broke on mine I just did the calcs and ended up building a subframe with two 1-1/2" sq 16 ga steel tubes(side by side not top and bottom) under each side all welded up. I used some cross pieces and had to build around the drain pipe. When complete and painted with POR-15, I filled the large holes with sheet foam, then put a rubber pad on top. It is light enough for two small people to easily pick up to put in the truck and strong enough to support a very heavy camper with a long overhang.

If rebuilding I would use a TJI/BCI floor/roof joist which comes in 7-1/2", 9.5", 11-7/8" and 14" depths. Properties are strong, straight,won't warp and not much more expensive than structural lumber. Almost any real lumber yard has them, but not HD or Lowes.

I'd be happy to help.

Well, that's a bit different alright. Take a look at the work being done by D1trout on the Avion rebuild string. He dropped the floor, but first he put in supports.You can see the whole explanation, with photos, on page 198. I understand your situation is different...but its worth taking a look.