Ram 1500 - 12v power to trailer
I've upgraded my tow from a 290 hp station wagon to a 395 hp truck and it's really made a difference pulling my little Sportsman. One thing the Ram lacks, and it's minor, is the ability to charge t...
Forum Discussion
russgary wrote:
I have a 400 ah agm battery pack, and my TV has a 130a alternator. I ran 4 Ga from the under hood area to the rear bumper and installed Anderson 175a connectors. There is another 4 Ga duplex wire attached to the trailer (recycled jumper cables) on each end is a 100a breaker and under hood is a 120a spat solenoid activated by ignition on. Its not a true battery isolator, but, it is an established method of keeping the starting battery from dying.. I have not installed the shunt and ammeter in this setup yet, so, I cannot quote the actual amps casual observations suggests however the charge is massive.
sounds exactly like what I want to do.
regarding other posts about alternator rpms. the "output" of the alternator depends only a little on rpm, mostly the output is controlled by the engine computer, reading the state of the starting battery. The wiring under the hood provides a low impedance path between the alternator, the computer, and the starting battery. Compared to the high impedance path between whatever 20-30 amp fuse and the trailer BAT+ connector uses (probably very skinny wire.)
The engine computer can only "see" the starting battery, and once it is charged, output of the alternator is reduced to provide only enough power to run the engine and accessories. Upgrading to heavy gauge wire between the alternator and the trailer allows the engine computer to "see" the trailer batteries, and increase alternator output to charge them as well.
