Ram 1500 snow chains

45Ricochet wrote:
OBTW watching the news in Spokane, WA in winter is very interesting when they cover home fires. Most are not chained but have frozen hoses after the fight.

Nothing like taking a concise, interesting topic and completely derailing it. ;) Yes, winter driving is very different in Spokane compared to Seattle, but house fires in subfreezing weather are no fun at all either way!

rjstractor wrote:

jus2shy wrote:

There's a few more things at play on that video. A bus has its engine setup like a Porsche 911, where the engine hangs back behind the rear axle. Most fire trucks have all their heavy equipment, even the engine either on the front, or in the middle. You have a better, more even distribution of mass on a fire truck. Where as on a bus, it's all on the rear end (Engine, cooling package, all the heavy gear). So on a fire truck, you're not subject to your rear end trying to pass your front end unlike a transit bus. Once the rear end steps out on a bus, it's game over when coming down a hill. Chains would not have helped that bus on as icy a road as it was (it's just glazed with ice, the chains wouldn't really bight into anything). That's why we have winter routes and we don't pull our buses to the curb when there's snow and ice.

In the fire department we don't have snow routes, so we use real chains because we have to get everywhere. You're correct about the weight distribution, it's close to 50/50 but believe me it doesn't help. With the super single tires and heavy front end, the steer tires lock up and make it impossible to steer at times. I've driven rear engine buses in the snow and ice also, and I'd much rather drive one than an engine. Our 70,000 pound ladder truck has great rear traction with 48,000 pounds on the rear axles, but it's so big and heavy it's rather scary to drive in snow and ice.

Wow this is really off the rails for a 1500 chain question :W
OP should know his clearance levels by now and know his rear axle clearance will not need anything like a Z chain application.
No front axle chains period.
OBTW watching the news in Spokane, WA in winter is very interesting when they cover home fires. Most are not chained but have frozen hoses after the fight.

jus2shy wrote:

There's a few more things at play on that video. A bus has its engine setup like a Porsche 911, where the engine hangs back behind the rear axle. Most fire trucks have all their heavy equipment, even the engine either on the front, or in the middle. You have a better, more even distribution of mass on a fire truck. Where as on a bus, it's all on the rear end (Engine, cooling package, all the heavy gear). So on a fire truck, you're not subject to your rear end trying to pass your front end unlike a transit bus. Once the rear end steps out on a bus, it's game over when coming down a hill. Chains would not have helped that bus on as icy a road as it was (it's just glazed with ice, the chains wouldn't really bight into anything). That's why we have winter routes and we don't pull our buses to the curb when there's snow and ice.

In the fire department we don't have snow routes, so we use real chains because we have to get everywhere. You're correct about the weight distribution, it's close to 50/50 but believe me it doesn't help. With the super single tires and heavy front end, the steer tires lock up and make it impossible to steer at times. I've driven rear engine buses in the snow and ice also, and I'd much rather drive one than an engine. Our 70,000 pound ladder truck has great rear traction with 48,000 pounds on the rear axles, but it's so big and heavy it's rather scary to drive in snow and ice.

Unless you observe clearance issues just get the regular chains.

rjstractor wrote:


That's funny you mention cables on buses, both buses in the Seattle video that were stuck sideways on the hill had cables on them! :) The SFD fire engine that crept cautiously yet successfully down the hill had real chains on the rear and cables up front. In my department we have tried cables but they quickly get shredded on hills. They are fine for lightweight vehicles though, and perfect for the requirement to carry chains.

There's a few more things at play on that video. A bus has its engine setup like a Porsche 911, where the engine hangs back behind the rear axle. Most fire trucks have all their heavy equipment, even the engine either on the front, or in the middle. You have a better, more even distribution of mass on a fire truck. Where as on a bus, it's all on the rear end (Engine, cooling package, all the heavy gear). So on a fire truck, you're not subject to your rear end trying to pass your front end unlike a transit bus. Once the rear end steps out on a bus, it's game over when coming down a hill. Chains would not have helped that bus on as icy a road as it was (it's just glazed with ice, the chains wouldn't really bight into anything). That's why we have winter routes and we don't pull our buses to the curb when there's snow and ice.

Of course fire-truck wise, I'm only talking about an engine. If it as a tanker, then a full tank of water would probably weigh the rear end down pretty good (no idea how much water a fire truck would hold if it was a tanker version).

Cables IIRC the spec, give you about 40% more traction than a std hwy tire. Studs around 9%, with std chain chains being 100%.

So depending upon the what you are driving in and on, choose your poison. Cables are not that good from my personal experience vs chain chains.

IIRC, michigan and a few other midwest states do not allow chains on vehicles....so use them at your own description. Here in the NW/puget sound area, I'll take the chain chains! I've seen way the heck too many metro buses stuck with cables.

Marty

jus2shy wrote:
I personally am good with cables. If they work on our buses on the occasional bad winter, they'll work for my truck. Really, cables/chains only help once the snow is packed.

That's funny you mention cables on buses, both buses in the Seattle video that were stuck sideways on the hill had cables on them! :) The SFD fire engine that crept cautiously yet successfully down the hill had real chains on the rear and cables up front. In my department we have tried cables but they quickly get shredded on hills. They are fine for lightweight vehicles though, and perfect for the requirement to carry chains.

If you're talking just the PNW, cables should more than suffice. Just about all cables manufactured, like the super-Z's are "S" class typically. I personally am good with cables. If they work on our buses on the occasional bad winter, they'll work for my truck. Really, cables/chains only help once the snow is packed. Unlike the east coast, we don't have as much salt to spread and we also don't have even 1/4 the plowing fleet that the midwest and east coast cities have. But then that's why the legend of a west coast car is a very real legend. You may not use chains in Michigan, but you don't have grades like here in the west coast either Oh the fun on hills. Ah hell, here's another Portland fun

Personally, I'd like to get a set of auto socks and call it good. Works on the same principle as putting thick "Wool" socks over your boot and walking on ice. You'll find that it isn't slippery. However, I don't know if they meet US DOT traction standards. I know they meet European TUV standards for winter traction. Well, it's been a while, but it looks like it's approved in about all PNW states, go here and check it out Auto Socks. Hopefully they're made in a size for your car.

Although the address is now Ewe-stun, have over 30 years of using chains in the mud, ice, and snow.

- If you're only getting chains because of the potential requirement to "have chains" (and that's a good enough reason), I'd suggest the cable chains since they'll satisfy the "have chains" law and the owners manual limits;
- If you're getting chains because you'll be going on limited service roads (i.e. no regular snow plow etc), I'd get the "best" you can fit on your P/U's rear wheels (since those wheels won't rotate side-to-side); If you'll need traction, you'll need real chains, not cables;
- If you are intending to drive through the gnarly winter conditions no matter what, I'd suggest 3 sets of chains: 1 set for the p/u rear wheels after checking clearance; 1 set for the front wheels (remember this is if you're driving through no matter what) that is appropriately sized for clearance....since the front wheel chains are mostly to help with braking and steering, cables might be OK; and 1 set for the trailer wheels (re: braking)...given that the trailer wheels go roundy round and not sideways, chains here can be as aggressive as the p/u rear wheels as long as clearance allows.
- For any chains, the baddest-strongest tighteners are your friend.
- For cables, there are limitations, but for real chains, you want to put them on so tight that it is everything you can do to get them on. Then stop in a mile or two and put them on a notch or two tighter (I'm referring here to the chains themselves, not the tighteners, but those should be adjusted to)
- For any chains, remember that you shouldn't drive over XX mph with them (see what the tire guys and chain guys say for the particular XX, for me it's about 30 mph); if you are able to drive over XX mph, then you don't need chains IMNSO.
- When you need them, you need them, but chains don't take the place of normal prudent winter driving.

....these work http://www.lacledechain.com/images/stories/traction/trucksuv/resingletruckXL.jpg

BenK wrote:
Turn your steering wheel all the way, either way...then compress the suspension
all the way down to the bump stop...and then some more to compress that bump stop

Betcha the clearance that you had to stick your head into is now gone...

Wouldn't you normally put the chains on the rear of a pickup? I would.