Ram 6.7 no start

M.R.E. wrote:
I'm not bitching about the price. I understand that. It's about the truck sitting at the dealer for a week before they checked the batteries.

I hate to say this, but that is par for the course right now. My Expedition spent over 8 weeks in the shop last year. Every time I called it was “almost done”. I even got a message on my Ford app that said something about it going into dormant mode since it had been so long since it moved.

My RAM just spent two weeks when I had an appointment weeks in advance and they knew I was leaving on a trip with my RV.

Dealers are under staffed just like everyone else.

I’m just glad for you to get your truck back and a simple repair.

I'm not bitching about the price. I understand that. It's about the truck sitting at the dealer for a week before they checked the batteries.

As FISH mentioned thanks for reporting back!!!

M.R.E. wrote:
Tow truck driver checked the battery before he took it to dealer and said the battery was good.

Probably just hooked up a volt meter.

M.R.E. wrote:
Tow truck driver checked the battery before he took it to dealer and said the battery was good.

Lol. By virtue of the fact that you said battery and not batteries, I now understand why you had it towed to a dealer.
However, to relate to your story, couple things that may help you or someone else who has no experience or ability diagnosing something like a dead battery, a battery can be dead as a door nail and still show 12V.
Example, yesterday one of our cars was dead. Kids argued over who left the key on. But regardless the battery was on life support apparently and may have not even been “left on”.
It was so short circuited that after a jump start to get it into the shop, it wouldn’t idle because the alternator couldn’t keep up with the shorter battery and provide enough juice to run the engine without revving it up a bit.
Yet after the jump start it died and re started a few times between the driveway and the shop.
4 hours later it still wouldn’t take a charge even though the charger showed almost complete.
This morning, battery showing 12.2V wouldn’t even “wake up” the car. No lights or anything on. (1999 model btw).
Battery mfg date was 9/11 though, so I think it did its job. Worked beautifully the last few months since I bought it. But the recent couple unseasonably hot days likely finished it off.
Swapped in one of the boat batteries. Problem solved.

Also for future reference. You can start your diesel with one good battery. In warm weather of course.

Tow truck driver checked the battery before he took it to dealer and said the battery was good.

Cummins12V98 wrote:

M.R.E. wrote:
$175 of the $272 is what they charged to check out what was wrong. A rip.

Probably a one hour minimum.

Minimum diag fee. Prevents people taking their vehicle to a shop to recieve the diag and then perform the repair themselves.

spoon059 wrote:

M.R.E. wrote:
$175 of the $272 is what they charged to check out what was wrong. A rip.

I mean... you asked a question here, we ALL answered to check the batteries. You didn't. You took it to a dealership, used the time of a service advisor, a repair tech to drive it in and hook up diagnostic equipment, electrity, machinery, paperwork to write it up, service advisor to call you back, repair tech to drive it back in, remove and reinstall batteries, check it, fill out paperwork, drive it back out, etc.

It costs money to run a dealership. I bought new batteries a year or two ago for less than half of what you paid. You chose the most expensive route, it's really in poor taste to place the blame on the wrong entity here...

At least he came back and reported the issue. Some don't even have the courtesy to report their findings so others can learn.

spoon059 wrote:

M.R.E. wrote:
$175 of the $272 is what they charged to check out what was wrong. A rip.

I mean... you asked a question here, we ALL answered to check the batteries. You didn't. You took it to a dealership, used the time of a service advisor, a repair tech to drive it in and hook up diagnostic equipment, electrity, machinery, paperwork to write it up, service advisor to call you back, repair tech to drive it back in, remove and reinstall batteries, check it, fill out paperwork, drive it back out, etc.

It costs money to run a dealership. I bought new batteries a year or two ago for less than half of what you paid. You chose the most expensive route, it's really in poor taste to place the blame on the wrong entity here...

Thumbs up!!!!!!!

M.R.E. wrote:
$175 of the $272 is what they charged to check out what was wrong. A rip.

I mean... you asked a question here, we ALL answered to check the batteries. You didn't. You took it to a dealership, used the time of a service advisor, a repair tech to drive it in and hook up diagnostic equipment, electrity, machinery, paperwork to write it up, service advisor to call you back, repair tech to drive it back in, remove and reinstall batteries, check it, fill out paperwork, drive it back out, etc.

It costs money to run a dealership. I bought new batteries a year or two ago for less than half of what you paid. You chose the most expensive route, it's really in poor taste to place the blame on the wrong entity here...