City water filling fresh tank
My trailer fresh tank fills direct on side of trailer. Tank is full. Left for week and turned city water off. Came back today and turned city water on, then while walking outside noticed water comi...
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Wild Card - that's good to know. It kind of confirms that this pump design may be faulty. Or maybe they fixed it with their rebuild kit? Read on.
I tried installing an external check valve on the suction side - a $7 PVC model that I picked up at the chain home improvements store. That fixed the problem for about 48 hours, then THAT check valve failed. Kind of off-topic, but just a caution - don't try to fix such problems with irrigation check valves. Get something of higher quality.
So I broke down and got ShurFlo's check valve rebuild kit 94-800-03 for around 1/3 the price of a new pump. After 4 days of being hooked up to city water pressure (reduced to 40 psi by a pressure regulator), there is no backflow through the pump whatsoever.
Here's why I think there may be more to the rebuild kit than just replenishing worn springs and diaphragms; Included in the rebuild kit was the entire pressure switch housing. (reference assembly 5 on page 1 of the diagram at this link where it is referred to simply as "Pressure Sw. 94-800-05")
http://shurflo.com/images/files/RV_Product_Data_Sheets/Fresh_Water_Pumps/pds-4008-101-X65.pdf
Now this pressure switch housing has an electrical connection and it holds the diaphragm, spring, and plunger. What I alluded to at the top of this post is that this may be more than just a rebuild kit for worn out rubber pieces; the pressure switch housing may be a revised part which fixes a faulty design. Because the rebuild instructions enclosed in the kit package go into detail on how to remove all of the pieces from the existing pressure switch housing, and then replace them. The instructions do not indicate that a pressure switch housing assembly is included - they instruct you to rebuild the old one.
However, seeing that a new pressure switch housing is included in the kit, you simply take the old pressure switch housing off with three screws, throw it away, and then with the pieces included in the rebuild kit, insert the new plunger, spring, and diaphragm into the newly-supplied pressure switch housing assembly and screw it back on.
Look for me again at this same post if and when it fails, but it's holding tight now!
I tried installing an external check valve on the suction side - a $7 PVC model that I picked up at the chain home improvements store. That fixed the problem for about 48 hours, then THAT check valve failed. Kind of off-topic, but just a caution - don't try to fix such problems with irrigation check valves. Get something of higher quality.
So I broke down and got ShurFlo's check valve rebuild kit 94-800-03 for around 1/3 the price of a new pump. After 4 days of being hooked up to city water pressure (reduced to 40 psi by a pressure regulator), there is no backflow through the pump whatsoever.
Here's why I think there may be more to the rebuild kit than just replenishing worn springs and diaphragms; Included in the rebuild kit was the entire pressure switch housing. (reference assembly 5 on page 1 of the diagram at this link where it is referred to simply as "Pressure Sw. 94-800-05")
http://shurflo.com/images/files/RV_Product_Data_Sheets/Fresh_Water_Pumps/pds-4008-101-X65.pdf
Now this pressure switch housing has an electrical connection and it holds the diaphragm, spring, and plunger. What I alluded to at the top of this post is that this may be more than just a rebuild kit for worn out rubber pieces; the pressure switch housing may be a revised part which fixes a faulty design. Because the rebuild instructions enclosed in the kit package go into detail on how to remove all of the pieces from the existing pressure switch housing, and then replace them. The instructions do not indicate that a pressure switch housing assembly is included - they instruct you to rebuild the old one.
However, seeing that a new pressure switch housing is included in the kit, you simply take the old pressure switch housing off with three screws, throw it away, and then with the pieces included in the rebuild kit, insert the new plunger, spring, and diaphragm into the newly-supplied pressure switch housing assembly and screw it back on.
Look for me again at this same post if and when it fails, but it's holding tight now!
