Dicor vs ProFlexRV for Underbelly Repairs

BillyW wrote:
I added my own coroplast to the underbelly of my trailer over 10 years ago. I did not seal anything, and purposely left a low spot to the rear for water drainage, just in case. It has stayed pretty clean inside and is reasonably easy to access if necessary. I made sure there were no big gaps, but otherwise left it alone.

Thanks for the advice. I'm leaning towards not sealing it up all the way and only filling a couple of the larger gaps where the Coroplast is cut to fit around the rear spring shackles on each side with landscape expanding foam (this was how the factory or the dealer addressed the original gaps). When I fabbed up the new underbelly, I used the old one as a template, and wish I hadn't matched the cutouts for the shackles on the old one, as I could have made much more precise cuts and not even needed the foam this time around.

I'm pretty sure my old underbelly was retaining a lot of water, as the metal on one of the corners that the Coroplast was mounted to was really rusty, as was the bolt in that location. I'm guessing that was the low point and water built up there and slowly drained out the threads of the bolt. The good news is there was no sign of mold or water damage on the floor above it.

path1 wrote:
After I had a water hose clamp break free, I also was wondering what to use. Never really could decide. Made what I thought was a good temp fix with black gorilla tape. Also replaced insulation matting with foam board insulation. If another leak happens, foam board doesn't fall apart. And added to annual check inspection to tight or check hose clamps on my annual inspection.

3 years later gorilla tape still working good and still wondering what would work best.

(side note) Also at the time of repair, couldn't find any full size corroblast sheets at any RV store. Ended up getting a big white sheet from a sign shop. Last year at a border patrol check point they asked lots of questions about big white patch job. This summer I think I'll spray paint it black, so it matches rest of underbelly. I do admit a big white patch job looks mighty suspicious.

Glad to hear your temp fix of Gorilla tape has held up for over three years, as I used that stuff to patch up areas of the Darco that melted due to the heat generated when repairing and reinforcing the frame. I may run a bead of sealant around the tape for good measure.

I had a hard time finding a full sheet of black Corplast as well. I went to the local RV dealer and asked about it, and they looked at me like I was speaking in tongues. I was able to find a sign shop close to work that had a few black sheets laying around and even was able to get them to cut the basic dimensions. I paid more than I should have, but it saved me a 40 mile round trip out to the airport and back during rush hour to get it from a plastic supply house. If I couldn't find any black sheets, my plan was also to spray paint a white sheet as a last resort. I also replaced the batt insulation with foil bubble wrap.

I have a week long trip planned the beginning of next month, so I think I'll run the trailer without the underbelly further sealed up and inspect it when I get home. I'm sure we'll be driving through plenty of rain, so I'll have a good chance to test it out and see if I want to seal it up all the way.

Here's a pic showing the old vs new underbelly:



Thanks guys!