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Siletzspey's avatar
Siletzspey
Explorer
Jan 25, 2018

Reading F350 overload springs for a 9'6" NL, stableloads

This is my first post to the forum, and I've gotten a lot from reading prior posts. Thanks!

Question... how does one read over-leaf and under-leaf engagement and dust-wear patterns to know if one is overloaded, and if helpers are warranted?

Particulars... my 2015 F350 4x4 SRW is door-sticker rated at 3,900-lbs payload, my new 2018 Northern-Lite 9'6" QSE at half-wet with me and wife is at 3,500, and I'm predicting fully wet and loaded up to 4,400. The center of gravity is 9.5" forward of rear axle.

Driving away from the RV dealership at 3,500-lbs, the F350 handled very well, and the truck is fairly level.

Still, I'm trying to read the dust wear pattern on the rear upper-leaf overloads, and trying to speculate if torklift stableloads might be appropriate on the lower-leaf overloads, especially if I get up to 4,400. Of course I don't want to lose constant over-leaf engagement with the rubber bumper.



Thanks,

--SiletzSpey
  • Not many things in your vehicle setup will put you at serious risk, but running with overloaded tires definitely will. The hotter the road, the higher the risk of tire failure. You really should do some research on this. The search will give you a lot of information and provide you with a good understanding from members that may not post here.
  • Siletzspey wrote:

    That said, I'd love to hear opinions on even running tires near or at their rated limit.

    --SiletzSpey

    Opinion -- don't do it.
  • Thanks for the feedback. I do plan to visit a CAT weigh station and get the final brutal truth. "In theory on paper" I'm under the rear and front axle and tire limits, but very close to the GVWR.

    That said, I'd love to hear opinions on even running tires near or at their rated limit.

    --SiletzSpey
  • I put Upper stable loads on my Dodge to engage the overload springs sooner and it also helps transfer weight to the front axle so it doesn't feel light when the camper is on.
  • I think you are making this far more complicated than it really is. The fact is, your tires should be your first concern. My bet is that if you look at the door-sticker weight numbers, and compare them to the load ratings on the side of the tire, they will be the same. My point is you need to weigh the truck, at least the rear axle to see if you are within the capacity of the tires. If you load is greater than your tire capacity, then you need tires with a heavier load capacity.

    If you modify the overload springs to make contact sooner, it will only reduce the amount the rear of the truck squats when loaded. The same amount of weight is on the tires.

    Personally, I suggest you look at your tires. Lots of potential problems if they are overloaded, including excessive sway.

    Wayne
  • I have had two trucks very similar to yours. With a TC probably 500 to 700 pds lighter. I have used on both those trucks quick disconnect torklift's on the lower springs and have been very happy with the results. My max is around 3600 pounds as wet as can be and my current 2017 chevy 3500 srw handles very good with the quick disconnects. My truck handles reasonably good without them but there is a definite improvement with the quick disconnects engaged.

    I don't know how to read the dust lines but once you get your rig fully loaded and go on a few trips I think you will notice two much sway on corners and to much coming close to bottoming out without some additional support with as much weight at you will be hauling.

    JMHO
  • Do “helpers” increase your truck’s payload, GVWR etc.? If not then...? Fairly level at 3,500 pounds? And wet you are how many pounds? Your TC is TOOOOO heavy for your truck.
  • The sticker payload is mean less with TC - you need to weight rear axle under the load and compare it to ratings.
    Your pattern looks like your upper overload is barely working.
    If you are comfortable with handling, that is all that matters (assuming you did not overload rear tires).
    I added hockey pucks to my upper overload only to be on safe side, aka when I'd be forced to drive with filled-up rear tanks.