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sleepy's avatar
sleepy
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Oct 30, 2015

Red Dog help... macerator pump

I built my sewage holding tank macerator pump using a marine macerator from West Marine many years ago.

Reddog bought a very nice macerator (or as he calls it, "Margerita Mixer") around the same time.... he used it weekly for many years... and flawlessly at that

.... mine has been used infrequently, it has always ahut down several times during each use for what I guessed was/is over-heating (this is the pump shutting down not the campers 12 VDC circuit breaker)

I'm tired of messing with my contraption... (did I say messing?)

Wayne, if you see this would you please tell me what brand and where you got it... and tell others about your experiences with it. You disposal system at home works very nicely.

Thank you for any additional advice in advance


Sleepy

19 Replies

  • One more question:
    If you have a quick connect on the pump end of the dump hose to prevent spills, how do you get the dump hose to drain before you store it?
    Thanks,Mike
  • Reddog1 wrote:
    I use the gray water as a pre-rinse, not really necessary to use the freshwater, but my preference. If I dump at a dump station, I usually do not use the freshwater.

    At home when I dump, I rinse my tanks each time I dump. I will run several gallons of fresh water in each of the tanks several times, and dump. I think it helps reduce the likelihood of solids build up in the tanks. It does not require much effort, just a little time.


    I agree.... if you ever have a plugged up or full black tank to work on you'll keep your own campers tanks clean from then on. It just take a little while to do it correctly.

    As far a 110VAC units... thats for people that camp in campgrounds that don't have hook ups for their sewer hose... Inverters are pretty expensive to pump ****
  • Thank you very much Wayne... and Janet thanks you too!

    I have already ordered what i believe to be the exact same pump and case... Flojet 18555000A... $210 plus tax from Amazon, free shipping...

    I already have the clear obsevatioin section and some check valves for the hose, i can use them.

    I have always used my neighbors 3/4" car washing hose... it's just perfect... 50' When I see his vehicles going down the street I feel like a part of me is going too!

    With the new pump I think I'll dedicate one of my own hoses for it.

    Thank you very much for sharing the info, pictures, and suggestions... I hope others will read your post... someday they'll need it.

    Chet
  • I use the gray water as a pre-rinse, not really necessary to use the freshwater, but my preference. If I dump at a dump station, I usually do not use the freshwater.

    At home when I dump, I rinse my tanks each time I dump. I will run several gallons of fresh water in each of the tanks several times, and dump. I think it helps reduce the likelihood of solids build up in the tanks. It does not require much effort, just a little time.
  • Question:
    If you use the gray water to flush and rinse why the freshwater hose ?
    Thanks,Mike
  • Thanks for your confidence in my having my poop together on the Macerator pump. I think I purchased my pump in about 2005 or 2006. I still use it, but not as often as I once did. I seldom use my stinky slinky, but it serves as a backup if my macerator fails.

    This is the pump I purchased from Camping World. FloJet RV Waste Pump Kit As I recall, the price I paid was also $250. You can buy lower cost units, but for me it was not worth the drama to adapt one of them to the TC. The storage box is nice, if you use it.

    I also use a Clearview 5" Sewer Adapter with Bayonet Lugs, between the macerator and TC connection. My dump valve flange points down toward the ground. The adapter allows me to see that the macerator is empty, preventing a surprise when I take the pump off. When I rense my tanks, I can see that the rinse water is clear. I tried a 90 Degree Clear Sewer Hose Adapter with Bayonet Lugs - See more at: http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/90-degree-clear-sewer-hose-adapter-with-bayonet-lugs/22171#sthash.PtA5U9qy.dpuf, but with the pump horizontal, it had the tendency to come off.

    I modified the 12-volt gater clamps so I could use the gater clamps or just plug it in the a 12-volt connector by the dump valve. The wires provided were a little short to connect the macerator to the dump valves and connect to the battery.

    I use a Brass Quick Connect Fitting for the water supply. It has a check valve. I have found it easier to connect a water hose by attaching the quick disconnect to the hose then simply plug the hose in.

    On the macerator discharge I use a Quick Connect Fitting without a check valve. I also use a Gilmour Full Flow Aluminum Water Hose Connector With Shut-Off Valve # 20515. This has a full flow, with no restriction. Very important. Set up is discharge hose (3/4-inch), Full flow shutoff, quick connect. The objective here is to disconnect the discharge hose with it closed off, preventing "stuff" from running out of the hose.

    I keep a 25-foot 3/4-inch hose in the TC for those times I dump while on the road. I also have a 3/4" hose at home to dump in my clean out that I modified for macerator dumping.


    My first setup, without the quick connects.



    A couple of things I have learned:

    1 When you first connect your pump, bump the on button. It is not unusual for the impeller to be stuck if it has dried out. If it does not spin use screwdriver to turn the motor. DO NOT TURN THE MOTOR BACKWARDS IT WILL DESTROY THE IMPELLER. I have had to replace my impeller two times simply because I turned the motor the wrong direction when it was stuck.

    2 It prevents number 1 above, if you put about a quarter teaspoon of cooking or of similar in the pump and bump the on button. It will lubricate the impeller.

    3 Long needle nose pliers will remove the hair that wraps around the impeller. If dry, a propane torch also can be used. It is not necessary to remove the impeller.

    4 Always open the gray first and run a little to insure your connections are correct. Then close the gray, dump the black, dump the gray to help rinse the adapter, macerator and dump hose. Mine came loose two times, when I used the 90-degree adapter. It has never failed with the straight adapter.

    5. Do not connect the macerator to your dump valve/s, and run the macerator with the valves closed. Bump the on switch okay, run no. If you have the fresh water running and discharge dump hose valve open, you can run the pump. Closed no.

    As I have posted before, storage space in a TC is scarce, and if properly maintained your macerator can serve multiple purposes. The most useful is dumping your tanks and use it for making a Slurpee or Margerita machine.

  • Red Dog can't help with macerator pumps.

    They are smart, but not enough to know about macerator pumps



    On the other hand, Reddog1 probably CAN help.

    Read this Info
  • not the answer you were looking for, but I bought a "made in china" knockoff from Ebay. used it maybe 12 times and it stopped. Turns out the only seal between bump and bearing was a sealed bearing, which did not stay sealed.
    And bearing is penned so good into pump flange your not going to replace it.
    I don't recommend what I bought.
    I also am looking forward to the answer of "what lasted"