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Glowrdr's avatar
Glowrdr
Explorer
Aug 17, 2016

Replace valves, or use twist on?

Recently picked up a used 2010 Dutchmen Kodiak. Been reading a lot, learning a lot, and buying a lot!

The trailer was winterized at the dealership, but during the PDI - I had them show me everything about it (first time owner). Well, I noticed the grey tank was showing as 3/4 full, the rest were empty. No biggy I thought, this is probably from them flushing out the lines for me (they indicated it was "un-winterized" for me).

The tank has been full for 2 weeks now, while I've been prepping it for our first trip. Figured "What the heck, its just clean grey water" and decided to just dump it in the gravel along side my driveway. I know this is generally frowned upon, but it should have been unused, clean (perhaps some anti-freeze?) water.

Put my gloves on (see - I'm learning!), cracked open the drain cap, and a bunch of water, maybe a gallon or so, came pouring out of the cap. Let me tell you.... Sure didn't smell like rinse water. Or drain water. Had what I believe was probably toilet paper, but couldn't confirm. Was pretty digested whatever it was.

So, long story short - back on here to figure out what the problem was. Found that I can cheaply, and pretty easily just replace the valves. For the time, cost, and relatively easy access to the valves - I might as well replace them both as long as I'm down there. But then, I see multiple recommendations for a twist-on valve that attaches where the sewer line would attach. Perfect!

Is the twist-on valve a viable option, made specifically for the problem I am having? Or am I trying to convince myself that there is an easy way out? I'm fine with changing the valves - but if I can just twist a valve on in 5 seconds and call it a day, I would not be heartbroken either. I just don't want to cause a problem down the road if I don't make the proper choice.

Thanks in advance! We coincidentally had 2 other sets of our friends pick up their trailers last week, so the 3 of us have been all excited to go on our first group campout!
  • From what I can tell, the valves appear to be working. At least water is not rushing out as fast as it goes in? The grey tank was 3/4 full and holding. The black has never been used by me, and is showing as empty on the control panel. Now I realize "empty" is a relative term that leaves a lot of wiggle room in this case. I have not actually put water into the black tank to see if that seal is holding. I cannot physically see the opening (at least I wasn't looking).

    I'll double check, but I believe I should be able to leave the twist on valve connected permanently as well. No worry about ground clearance or sticking out too far. Just wasn't sure if it was suitable for "permanent" use, or just a bandaid.
  • Twist on valve is great addition IF you can leave it on all the time......
    Will it hang down to low?
    Will it need additional strap support so it doesn't bounce and stress drain header piping?

    I don't use the twist on because it would stick to far out side of my 5th wheel and would hang low so I installed another valve in horizontal run of common drain header.

    I have done this on last three trailers.
    I do it so I can 'optimize' waste tank usage when boondocking.


    Black/Grey tank drain valves MAY be leaking thru........but I would wait until next routine dump (FULL Tanks) and see if it is just poor winterizing procedure preformed by dealer, stuff caught in valve blade/grove or if seals are bad.

    Then decide....
  • It could have been water backed up behind the cap when the tank valve was opened, then closed, with the cap still in place.

    Before spending money, check to see if the valve(s) actually works or not. Your post above doesn't make any reference to having operated the valves to verify if they are functional or not.