Reroofing follow up
Back in Sept. I reroofed our 08 Gulfbreeze Gulf stream 26 w/ a rear slide. It had felt back TPO and had wicked up a bunch of moisture thru the top of the rain gutter as well as a failed front fairing termination. The underlayment was replaced and the roofing redone with new EPDM. It was done outside so it was tarped when not being worked on.
The plan was to replace a few of the ceiling panels in the fwd bunk room as they were soft and showed some delamination. More for look than structural integrity . I devised a fan contraption that covered the fwd hatch and forced air into the space between the ceiling and the roof, for the purpose of this post I will call it the "Attic". Had a bit of time to work on it over the holidays so I ordered a few ceiling panels figuring I could knock it off in a few days. Wrong!!!
Upon gutting the ceiling it was apparent the
"attic" had trapped the moisture that had remained in the framing and wall. To my dismay it was wicking up into the the new underlayment from the bottom ( I had sealed the top with plywood sealer). Now wishing I sealed the bottom as well. Enough moisture wicked back up to allow green mold to start forming on the new underlayment. This would be a good place to point out there is no way there are any new leaks in the roof, I was "anal" about every aspect of the reroofing , think over built.
There was a dehumidifier running from Sept thru oct. and all the vent and skylight trims were removed to help vent out any excess moisture, it did not work.
I gutted a little more ceiling into the bathroom where there was a soft spot, more moisture and mold.
This made me concerned as I recalled the wettest spot was in the rear corner near the slide, but the ceiling panels were ok back there.
What to do?? After much pondering I came up with what should be a permanent solution. Treat it like an attic, add ventilation. I drilled 3" holes in every other bay (area between rafters) and used a paint stick to pull back the insulation a bit. Sure enough the rear corners were damp and showed mold on the new underlayment. I treated all the moldy areas with bleach and a mold preventative, cranked up the heat and got the humidity down to 45% inside the rig for over a week. The moisture has stopped coming out of the walls, and the mold has stopped growing. Rigged up a forces air fan foe the attic and had the dehumidifier cranking till tonight. Temp are going to bottom out so I am gonna let it all sit for a while. The 3 " holes will be plugged with Soffet vents so I can air out the "attic more in the spring". I can use the holes to monitor the condition of the underlayment, and then just add recessed lighting in the future if it totally dries out.
I plan to use a vapor type mold killer in the spring and run the dehumidifier on a semi permanent basis. The last pic. shows the soffit vent installed. Planning to use 12 of the vents evenly spaced. I would like to seal or Get-Rot the affected areas before putting up the new ceiling panels but am hesitant to do so until I am sure all the latent moisture ids gone.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to treat any mold I may not be able to see? Vapor? Air flow?
The plan was to replace a few of the ceiling panels in the fwd bunk room as they were soft and showed some delamination. More for look than structural integrity . I devised a fan contraption that covered the fwd hatch and forced air into the space between the ceiling and the roof, for the purpose of this post I will call it the "Attic". Had a bit of time to work on it over the holidays so I ordered a few ceiling panels figuring I could knock it off in a few days. Wrong!!!
Upon gutting the ceiling it was apparent the
"attic" had trapped the moisture that had remained in the framing and wall. To my dismay it was wicking up into the the new underlayment from the bottom ( I had sealed the top with plywood sealer). Now wishing I sealed the bottom as well. Enough moisture wicked back up to allow green mold to start forming on the new underlayment. This would be a good place to point out there is no way there are any new leaks in the roof, I was "anal" about every aspect of the reroofing , think over built.
There was a dehumidifier running from Sept thru oct. and all the vent and skylight trims were removed to help vent out any excess moisture, it did not work.
I gutted a little more ceiling into the bathroom where there was a soft spot, more moisture and mold.
This made me concerned as I recalled the wettest spot was in the rear corner near the slide, but the ceiling panels were ok back there.
What to do?? After much pondering I came up with what should be a permanent solution. Treat it like an attic, add ventilation. I drilled 3" holes in every other bay (area between rafters) and used a paint stick to pull back the insulation a bit. Sure enough the rear corners were damp and showed mold on the new underlayment. I treated all the moldy areas with bleach and a mold preventative, cranked up the heat and got the humidity down to 45% inside the rig for over a week. The moisture has stopped coming out of the walls, and the mold has stopped growing. Rigged up a forces air fan foe the attic and had the dehumidifier cranking till tonight. Temp are going to bottom out so I am gonna let it all sit for a while. The 3 " holes will be plugged with Soffet vents so I can air out the "attic more in the spring". I can use the holes to monitor the condition of the underlayment, and then just add recessed lighting in the future if it totally dries out.
I plan to use a vapor type mold killer in the spring and run the dehumidifier on a semi permanent basis. The last pic. shows the soffit vent installed. Planning to use 12 of the vents evenly spaced. I would like to seal or Get-Rot the affected areas before putting up the new ceiling panels but am hesitant to do so until I am sure all the latent moisture ids gone.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to treat any mold I may not be able to see? Vapor? Air flow?
