This issue comes up occasionally. Having driven 2 million miles in some kind of 4WD I can report that only the loaded radius is important in using different size wheels, and differing widths. Get all wheels/tires with the same loaded radius and you are good. The main thing to remember is that the diameter of the tires must be within 2-3% of each other. It doesn't matter what size the wheel is or how wide or narrow the tires/wheels. I'm using 12" wide wheels on the rear with 375x55r16 tires. They are within 2-3% of each other. Rears: 32.8" tall. Fronts: 33.1" tall. Loaded, they get even closer. No one has mentioned the culprit in using different diameter wheels/tires with a part-time transfer case. (A full time t. case is more forgiving as it has a center differential which allows front and rear drive axles to turn a different speeds) If the axles with a part time t. case are turning at a rate more than 2-3% different, it puts a tremendous strain on the transfer case which is trying like mad to put the same revolutions out to front and rear. The flash point, in a chain driven t. case, is the chain, the front/rear output bearings, and the drive shaft U-joints. The chain can stretch or even break under different diameter wheels/tires. You know you've done some damage when you cannot get out of 4WD. In college, I had a student trombone player whose parents owned a 1967 Land Rover 109 and drove it to Mammoth Lakes Ski Resort on its maiden voyage. Still my all time fave body style. It was snowing and when they ran out of snow they couldn't get it out of 4WD so they drove it the 275 miles back to L.A. They said it started making a tremendous howling noise. Scratch one transfer case.
O.K. let's review: as long as the wheel/tire combo loaded radius is the same all around, you are good to go.
jefe